The market in Ocosingo is one of the more interesting I have seen and is open everyday. The Maya dialect is the most common language and most of those that do speak Spanish speak a broken Spanish. Since there are essentially no tourists in Ocosingo, English and German are not spoken here…making Oconsingo a great place to immerse oneself in Maya and Spanish.
There are of course the ambulatory vendors of candy, watches and cheap jewelry. Some of these sellers are independents and others come in off the ranches and get their goods from small distributors and earn a commission from what they sell. This is a way the ex-Zapatista just out of the jungle can earn a living.
There is a section for the Tianguis de Campesino or farm producer’s market. It is a bare cement floor where the Indian farmers come and sell their goods and wares. You can see these Indians getting off the bus early in the morning and walking to the tiangus. These sell eggs, corn, beans of many types, coffee and pozol – a type of corn masa that can be mixed with water to form a gruel. There are all types of fruits and vegetables. We buy some passion fruit. There are also some handicrafts such as embroidered blouses, dresses and all the women are dressed with their native village dresses, blouses and skirts. There are also gourds and other handy items for farm life. Most of the items here are farm products or handicrafts that require very little capital investment. Needless to say these campesinos are poor – most of them are very poor.
Then there are the street vendors with carts and they sell mainly food items. There is corn on the cob, trehelote or a type of corn, mayo, lemon and chile mix. There are also varying types of tacos and tortas or sandwiches and of course hot dogs and hamburgers. A sandwich is usually made of pan bimbo or sliced white bread and a torta is made with a French style roll. I always order tortas. These vendors must purchase their carts and supplies so there is some investment, but not much. But for the poor, it is a major step up from selling off the concrete.
Then there are those that rent stalls in the market itself. They sell meats, durable goods such as buckets and hardware, clothes and shoes, household items and items that need to be stocked on shelves. They also sell food and usually have benches and tables for their customers. These are higher priced or volume items that bring better margins but require more capital and of course there is the rent. Also being located in a fixed location, they are required to pay more fees and taxes.
Finally there are the merchants that rent or own nearby stores. They sell appliances, books, clothes and items that are more expensive. They benefit from the market traffic even though much of that traffic cannot afford more expensive goods. They are the top of the local merchant chain and to go higher one owns more than one store. And has employees.
We stop at a small restaurant and have a breakfast of chiliquiles and tacos de pollo. The coffee is hot and tasty; Chiapas is well known for its coffee.
The day is drizzly and foggy and we would like to stay but need to go – Oconsingo has been one of our favorite towns. The road to San Cristobal winds upward out of town and we can look down on the valley and even see the Tonina ruins. We keep climbing through small communities; some with Zapatista signs. The locals use the highway as a path and walkway and one has to be careful when driving. There are topes or speedbumps at every community and they can be annoying, especially when they are high and scrape the car bottom. It is said that Mexicans put up a tope wherever a pedestrian is hit…I’m not sure that is true but there are certainly many of them. Topes are the only way to slow down the fast Mexican drivers.
We keep climbing into the Chiapas Sierras and the road is curvy and slick. Most of the time I can only go 30 or maybe 40 MPH. This is no autopista. We see signs along the highway that read ‘Those that litter will be fined 30 times the minimum wage”. Several towns also have makeshift signs saying those that litter will be punished by the local town. I’m not sure what that means and would not want to find out, ha!
We stop in the Sierra town of Oxhuc for a break. We walk through the market and buy some ground coffee, ground chile and oranges. We also buy some helotes or corn. I hear very little Spanish spoken here. Even those that have stores speak broken Spanish. This has to be a problem for commerce and upward mobility and keep the Maya Indians more isolated. It also shows that anyone can be bilingual. People stared at me, the Gringo in Ocosingo but in Oxphul even Angelica looks out of place. There are no Germans and from what I could see, few non-locals.
Even though the signs are in Spanish, I feel like I am in a foreign country. This is not Mexico to me, though of course it is.
We stop by the Catholic church and are surprised at how large it is. There are also a very large array of statues that are works of art…there must have been 50 or 60 on display at various places. Many were in locked cases so they must be valuable and I would assume from area craftsmen. The statues themselves could make a museum, though the Jehovahs would call them idols. It’s all relative, no?
School has just let out and the school kids are returning to their homes. Oddly, the girl’s uniform are ankle length dresses -- something we have seen nowhere else. It is cool and we can see our breath. On our way back to the car we buy some dos cremas queso or two cream cheese. To our surprise it is a feta type cheese and very delicious.
We leave Oxhul and continue to climb the Sierra. We see signs it is illegal to plant on federal land – the farmers here will plant corn anywhere – even in rocky areas on the side of the road. We also notice houses and small stores selling gasoline out of plastic containers; there are no Pemex stations here and what would happen if we run out of gas? Ha… Some of them must have chainsaws because in some spots there are no trees…
We finally hit the Sierra Norte de Chiapas crest and begin the decent to San Cristobal de Las Casas. San Cristobal is big and bustling with lots of dust and traffic. Downtown is quaint colonial and we can see the tourists but I’m really not interested in either. We buy gas and head out of town on the Libre because the Cuota is closed due to a washed out bridge from the recent flooding. I don’t really mind as the Libre is often more interesting but this Libre is one hairpin turn after another. We begin the slow descent out of the Sierra Los Altos de Chiapas. The pines and thick jungle green of the moist highlands surprisingly turns to a drier, browner chaparral. It reminds me of the eastern slopes of the Sierras in California.
We drive into Chiapa de Corzo and are in a mild culture shock. Even though many speak a broken Spanish, we are back in civilization so to speak.
Jack D. Deal