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April 16, 2009

Conformity is its own reward...

Conformity is its own reward. --Gato D. Deal

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April 12, 2009

Twitterings on Disney, Snow White, Modern Angst, Stereotyping, Collective thinking and conformists .....

jackddeal

  1. but at least it gives us a happy ending...ha...
  2. then again, Snow White doesn't really fit the contemporary model of modern angst, collective thought and conformist complacency...right?
  3. so there is plenty of stereotyping but still a fun film..if you like the old time story thread; beginning, build crisis,resolution,happy end
  4. and the only antidote for the wicked Queen's poisonous apple was a kiss from Prince Charming...and the Dwarfs act like rednecks...etc...
  5. the animals all had human expressions which upsets the animal activists and Snow White is very traditional woman upsetting the feminists...
  6. the plot simple,straightforward with no doubt who was good and who was evil as opposed to some of today's plots...head scratchers...
  7. the colors are fantastic and the animation still sharp and crisp compared with today's stiff and computer generated cartoons...
  8. in Snow White, there is the first Dwarf scene in the mines where they sing they work because they like to; diamonds everywhere helps...ha...
  9. hardest hit for Disney is Orlando; one employee received a decades recognition award one day and got laid off the next...
  10. odd to see the CNN.com note on Disney laying off longtime employees just after watching Snow White after many, many decades...ha...

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March 29, 2009

9/11, WTC, Dropping "Freedom" from the new WTC name and R. Reagan...

Somehow 9/11 is fading away as evidenced by dropping the name from the new WTC building...reminds of us of quote from Reagan:

Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We do not pass it to our children in the bloodstream.  It  must be fought for, protected, and handed on to them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States ,  where men were free.
      -Ronald Reagan


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9/11...what's that?

With the name change on the New World Trade Center we are completing another phase of forgetting 9/11.   How quickly we forget...no?  If we forget it, won't it just go away?

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March 21, 2009

Mirror, mirror on the wall, who's the stupidest of us all?

Why the American electorate of course...we keep voting thinking it's somehow in our best interest...ha...

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March 19, 2009

American behaviors and attitudes following the post 'Japanese bubble' trend?

As the nation's economy has gotten worse, Americans' confidence in their own economic prospects has slipped, and it is lowest when it comes to long-term goals such as saving for college or retirement. -- Keating Holland, CNN.com
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Mother knows best besides, who needs dads?

More babies were born in the United States in 2007 than any other year in the nation's history — and a wedding band made increasingly little difference in the matter. The 4,317,119 births, reported by federal researchers Wednesday, topped a record first set in 1957 at the height of the baby boom. 

Behind the number is both good and bad news. While it shows the U.S. population is more than replacing itself, a healthy trend, the teen birth rate was up for a second year in a row. --Mike Stobbe, AP


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Aren't you glad you did everything right? (and believed you were?)

like buy that starter house, invest in your 401K, have confidence that the SEC was watching the banks and investment firms, invest in Ford and GM, believe that we have a true democracy that protects the weak, believe Alan Greenspan, believe Robert McNamara, believe...ha...

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March 16, 2009

Say it ain't so, Joe...er Lance...

I was particularly disturbed to find out that the “juicy, charcoal-y… seductive aroma” one is assaulted by upon entering a fast food restaurant is not the smell of burgers on the grill but instead comes from a canister with a “just-cooked-bacon-cheeseburger-like fragrance” that the fast food restaurant pumps through its vents. I didn’t want to know that. --Lance Loveday

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Health care woes?

A friend said he took his sick wife to the emergency room where she stayed for 12 hours and got a bill for $5400.  He still had to pay a $1200 deductible along with his $1100 monthly premiums...

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February 03, 2009

You can't go home again note from immigrant; no puedes regresar otra vez a tu pueblo

comment from youtube.com/jackddeal on video ; comentario de youtube.com/jackddeal sobre un video

oye me gustaria ver mas de Potrero del llano ver soy nacida ahi y tengo 10 años que no voy por alla
ojala subieran mas videos pero del pueblo,calles y algunas cosas nuevas si las hay par recordar viejos tiempos. Juanita

English:

hey, I would like to see more of Potrero del Llano as I was born there and it's been 10 years since I went there and hopefully they will put up more videos of the town, streets and new things so that I can remember  old times. Juanita.


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January 27, 2009

New buzz word of the day "Repurposing Waste"

New buzzword term of the day "Repurposing Waste" ; what's wrong with "recycle"?

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December 02, 2008

Is there a relationship between collective thinking and declining civilizations?

that collective thinking has brought us to the point of other declining civilizations which also thought themselves to be invincible...
jackddeal
jackddeal BTW, Larry Summers is the ex Harvard president that was booed for suggesting there was a difference in the male and female brain...duh...
jackddeal
jackddeal how many intelligent people do you know that believe government can solve all their problems?
jackddeal
jackddeal hence we are seeing governments at all levels becoming more archaic and ineffective, if that is possible...
jackddeal
jackddeal the transformation in the business world is much faster than the transformation in the government world...groan...
jackddeal
jackddeal the reason is that very few have the guts to show fiscal constraint during good times since there are no immediate consequences...
jackddeal
jackddeal if we can reduce local government spending by 25% and little changes, why didn't the local politicos do that before?
jackddeal
jackddeal it's

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September 03, 2008

Why Mid-America Isn't Berkely and Why Does Obama's Campaign Staff Still Think So?

jackddeal Burton obviously thinks Mid-America is like Berkely...groan...all this anti-mom and anti-family blather will be credited to Obama...groan...
jackddeal McCain doesn't have to be the major strategist; all he has to do is let Burton continue to drag the Obama campaign sideways...groan...
jackddeal look at Barrack's face, Burton, he's worn out again just like that stretch against Hillary and being tired he is prone to mistakes...
jackddeal is Burton on the Repubs payroll? groan...Obama should be 15 points ahead and now he's facing the reality of a defeat...
jackddeal now we are relying on Burton's strategy to pull us through and he disses small towns...groan...and his female surrogates going after mom...
jackddeal if Burton had insisted Obama had picked Hillary all of this would be moot; an Obama Clinton ticket would have walked in...why not?
jackddeal it can be a daily stream of bad campaign decisions that give away all our Democrat advantages...groan...your strategy is flawed, Burton...
jackddeal if it's a dead heat on Nov. 4 Obama will lose and then he can blame it all on Burton...groan...
jackddeal like Burton and the other trigger happy zealots they hurt their cause and are providing motivation for the enemy...groan...
jackddeal by attacking the family we are perceived as attacking America and that doesn't play well outside of Madison and Santa Cruz...groan...
jackddeal it's crystal clear that Burton hates mid-America and just what does he think those swing states are? groan...
jackddeal in another month it will be too late for Obama to retool and the chips will fall where they will...on a hope and prayer in the swing states

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August 23, 2008

John Edward's Narcicism, Teenaged Explanations and Realilzing Individual Potential

jackddeal Edward's said he became self-absorbed and narcissistic and that made him do it...which is cause and effect?
jackddeal Edwards' explainations are great reminding me of the explanations a teenager gives on why the did something...causation?
jackddeal once again, why should I care anything about John Edwards and who he is or is not sleeping with?
jackddeal those higher levels of productivity create a greater level of employee satisfaction as the employee realizes her potential...
jackddeal managers and exectutives will look for ways to realize an individual's potential which will lead to higher levels of productivity...
jackddeal the new HR will be less about individual accountability and more about realizing that employee's potential...
jackddeal then there are breakthrough employees. Once in a blue moon the average company hires someone that can make a dramatic difference...
jackddeal #2 button of the day: Food for Freedom V; WWII Victory Garden button with carrot in the background
jackddeal marquis of the day: let your ego go; on the Food Bin, Mission St. Santa Cruz CA
jackddeal marquis of the day: let your ego go; on the Food Bin, Mission St. Santa Cruz CA
jackddeal marquis of the day: let your ego go; on the Food Bin, Mission St. Santa Cruz CA
jackddeal #1 button of the day: Food for Freedom V (with pig in background); WWII Food for Victory pin

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August 20, 2008

Requiem for the Local Chambers of Commerce and Why Your Insurance Company Prefers You Take Drugs

jackddeal jackddeal now the local consumer can do business with any company they find searching the Internet...
jackddeal jackddeal in the old days one did business with those that one knew or knew of locally...
jackddeal jackddeal Technology and specifically search technology has opened the world to the local consumer and that means they have more than local options.
jackddeal jackddeal A big picture analysis shows that the concept of "local" has changed.
jackddeal jackddeal But it's not just in San Jose. Go to any local Chamber of Commerce and more than likely you will find the same thing. Why?
jackddeal jackddeal Somehow being a Chamber member and paying the $150 yearly fee would put you among the elite and raise the credibility of your company.
jackddeal jackddeal In the old days a local Chamber of Commerce was a place to advertise and promote your local business. Simple and not very complex...
jackddeal jackddeal of the tens of thousands of businesses in San Jose only a very small percentage bother to join the San Jose Chamber of Commerce...
jackddeal jackddeal for insurance purposes, if you have to go to a psychiatrist or psychotherapist, you might be asked to switch to more cost effective 'drugs'
jackddeal jackddeal top five all time best buttons: "No ordinary man has survived a date with one of our waitresses..."
jackddeal jackddeal initiative is what it's all about and if the tax burden becomes too high the initiative is destroyed...

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August 08, 2008

Notes on the The Death of Small Rented Offices and Stores

The Death of Small Rented Offices and Stores

Cost per square foot has gone up

Taxes have gone upTriple Net, maintenance, parking fees, misc. fees up

Commuting cost to and from work, up.   Meals at work, up. 

Childcare, up.  Business attire, up.   

Utilities, up.  Furnishings and décor, up.

Janitorial and cleaning, up. Employees and office help, up.    

If retail, must sell higher ticket items.  Cannot be a discount store at $10/square foot.  Not enough shelf space.  Too small for service businesses like restaurant or beauty salon. Can't squeeze enough margin… Cash flow-wise  the numbers don't match; hence the old expression 'working to pay rent'.   

Increasingly many small businesses and professionals are realizing it is not necessary for them to have a physical presence and place where they must meet customers and clients.  These smaller businesses that once were located at a specific location can now locate themselves at a specific location online.   

In downtown San Jose I saw a business sign that was a website address.    More acceptable to not have a physical office and less acceptable having a poor web presence.   For many, it is worse to have a bad google footprint than not to have an office.

Small office makes one look small.   Big web presence makes one look big.  Where is the better ROI?   Online search technologies are allowing consumers to find what they want online.   Smaller businesses increasingly are not competing just locally but regionally and globally as well. 

Loss of productivity while commuting to and from work hurts small business more.  The psychological toll of maintaining a physical store or office does drain one's energies.   

Not unusual to see half empty small office buildings and half empty strip malls.   The question is will small business pressures prevent the rebound of small rental offices and stores. 


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July 31, 2008

If It Were Not for Stress, We Would All Be Rocks or How Ideas Spontaneously Generate

jackddeal associations or links can cause spontaneous idea generation, which really isn't spontaneous at all, since it often derives from the links...
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jackddeal if stress causes species to spontaneously mutate; then is stress a good or bad thing? does stress actually cause evolution?
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jackddeal way too much serious stuff in the world and not enough play time...
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jackddeal which is more correct, twit or twitter?
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jackddeal are phones actually made for twittering?
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jackddeal the self vs. society struggle will always be until either the self or society disappears or no longer cares, whichever comes first...
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jackddeal how can we be humble and ambitious at the same time?
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jackddeal it's good to take a break from self promotion as if it were a relief not to be doing it all the time...ha...
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jackddeal if it were not for stress we would be rocks...
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jackddeal apparently stress is the one factor that can cause species to spontaneously mutate very quickly; survival of the fittest and survival period

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March 26, 2008

Lessons in Life, Love and Culture from Popeye, Brutus, Olive Oyl and Wimpy

Who says America has no culture?  

The plot wasn't exactly Agatha Christie but then again Popeye was a kiddie cartoon. The central theme was Popeye and Brutus fighting over lovely Olive Oyl's affections or love makes the world go around.  

Even back then we had to wonder what was so attractive about Olive Oyl but suffice it to say there was something about her that had 'hot babe' written all over it.   At least from the suitor's perspective.

As little kids we didn't know much about grown-ups and love and such but we knew it was there.  From Popeye and Brutus we learned that one will go to great lengths to find true love and certainly Popeye and Brutus were willing to go to great lengths to win favor with Olive Oyl.  

And certainly romancing Olive Oyl with her daughter Sweet Pea wasn't easy.  It wasn't clear who Sweet Pea's father was but we can assume that it wasn't Brutus or Popeye.  In fact it never really entered the plot; Olive Oyl was always presented as a single mother.   

Sweet Pea would often wander off and that would provide the episode's edge.  Of course Olive would panic and enlist the aid of both of her suitors; one thing was clear Olive's top priority was Sweet Pea; not fashions, suitors or going out to the latest clubs.   The way to Olive Oyl's heart was through Sweet Pea. 

Brutus was a brute and that was that.  He had few redeeming qualities and his motives were either explicitly or implicitly questionable, whereas with amigo Popeye he always let us know that he was playing it straight up.   Poor Popeye's conscience would not let him stray far from the path.  

In fact, one of Popeye's redeeming qualities was he was not bright enough to get too far off track.   Often it was even clear that Popeye's nemesis Brutus was in fact cleverer albeit he always seemed to lose on principle and didn't have the secret weapon spinach.   

Perhaps the most revealing parts were when Popeye reflected on life and his predicaments.   It was as if he would stop in the middle of some disaster and patiently reflect on where he was and what he needed to do to get out of his current mess.  

He would make his most poignant insights at this time and it was here that Popeye assessed his life and found his motivation to go on.   And where we kiddies got to take a look into his cartoon brain.  

On the other hand weird guy Wimpy was simply one obsessed character.   As little tykes we had limited exposure to the hard cruel world but Wimpy taught us that an obsessive compulsive behavior could drive one's total behavior.  

Our limited kiddie world had its share of obsessive behaviors.   Wimpy was always looking for a hamburger and that was it.  Everything else took back seat to his hamburger quest. 

Unfortunately Wimpy's hamburger obsession brought about his 'ruin' and so he was condemned to forever live his curse; the raw truth is there are never really enough hamburgers.  

Wimpy's famous line "I'll gladly repay you Tuesday" was clearly a ruse and not ever to be trusted.   Simply put, Wimpy had a burger addiction.  

Popeye taught us that people could be stubborn, prejudiced, self-centered and obsessed yet still maintain goodness and strength of character when the game is on the line.   Even though a clown and buffoon it was always clear that somewhere beneath Popeye's crusty, salty exterior was a warm heart.  

With Brutus there was no such illusion; Brutus' cynical facial expressions revealed his truly flawed and rotten personal dynamics.    Usually Popeye would get himself into a bind and Brutus would have him tied or cornered with no way out.  

Popeye would then sardonically review his hopeless case and then realize that his only hope was to eat some Spinach, his strength inducer. 

My assumption was always that the Spinach part was to show kids that spinach was in fact nutritious though not very tasty, at least from a three or four year old's perspective.    Popeye could even be tied up and if he could only get the can of Spinach out of his pocket, he could in fact inhale the Spinach with his pipe.   No small feat.  

Today one cannot help but wonder what the significance of finding solutions by inhaling on a pipe meant.  One has to wonder if seeing Popeye get stronger and gain advantage quickly later led to increases in steroid and crack cocaine use.  

Was even the concept that external agents could cause performance enhancement revolutionary?   But that is only tenuous and in the end Popeye is only a cartoon.   

As with anything cultural Popeye had his day and is now found mostly in the archives.   Saturday mornings find fewer and fewer episodes of Popeye and in the not too distant future our old pal Popeye will be relegated to archives. 

Although we didn't realize it at the time, Popeye introduced us to character types, struggle, identity and love.   Not bad for a kiddie cartoon.  

In the 22nd century graduate students will write theses on "Popeye's Influence on the 20th Century Drugged Culture" or "Family Dysfunction and Competitive Romance in the Pre-Modern Era."   Or some such.  

They will look at Popeye and his era with future perspectives that hopefully will not miss out on all of life's lessons the cast brought to all of us developing tykes.     

And in the end his archival epitaph will spell out what he is.  As he said it best, "I yam what I yam."   We would expect no more and no less; some things just are.   In the end, Popeye was comfortable in his own skin.     

"I fight to the finich 'cause I eat me Spinach; I'm Popeye the Sailor Man" Toot, toot.  And just who was it that said America has no culture?


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March 06, 2008

ΠήÏα συνέντευξη από Ï€Ïόσφατα στο Ïαδιόφωνο έναν γκουÏÎ¿Ï Ï„Î¿Ï… ανθÏώπινου Î´Ï…Î½Î±Î¼Î¹ÎºÎ¿Ï Ï…ÏˆÎ·Î»Î®Ï‚ τεχνολογίας από Σίλικον Βάλεϋ. Κατά τη διάÏκεια εï

Πήρα συνέντευξη απÏŒ πρÏŒσφατα στο ραδιÏŒφωνο έναν γκουροÏ του ανθρÏŽπινου δυναμικοÏ υψηλής τεχνολογίας απÏŒ Σίλικον ΒάλεÏ‹. Κατά τη διάρκεια ενÏŒς τμήματος της επίδειξης μιλοÏσαμε για το κατάλληλο φÏŒρεμα για μια θέση εργασίας υψηλής τεχνολογίας. Σε ένα απÏŒ τα εμπορικά σπασίματα ανέφερε ÏŒτι είχε κάνει τη στρατολÏŒγηση σε μια μικρή επιχείρηση υψηλής τεχνολογίας που είχε υιοθετήσει "grunge" ως εταιρική ταυτÏŒτητά της. Είχε τους δίδοντες συνέντευξη που δεν είχαν σχίσει τον ιματισμÏŒ, την μπερδεμένη τρίχα και κανένα παποÏτσι.

Ήταν ένα παράξενο σÏνολο συνεντεÏξεων, αυτÏŒς εμπιστεÏτηκε, αλλά προς το καλÏτερο ή χειρÏŒτερα η επιχείρηση είχε καθορίσει τα πρÏŒτυπα. Ένα κοστοÏμι και ένας δεσμÏŒς δεν ήταν σίγουρα κατάλληλοι. ΑργÏŒτερα στην επίδειξη συζητήσαμε λεπτομερέστερα ποια είδη των πραγμάτων ήταν κατάλληλα.

Περιλαμβάνείτε σε χιλιάδες συνεντεÏξεις Ι σκέφτηκε ÏŒτι το είχα δει ÏŒλα: οινÏŒπνευμα, του προσÏŽπου δερματοστιξίες, ελεÏθερη χρήση των αισχρολογιÏŽν, κ.λπ. ΑκÏŒμα, το θέμα της αντίληψης ενÏŒς ερευνητή είναι ενδιαφερÏŒμενο έτσι άρχισα να σημειÏŽνω μερικές σημειÏŽσεις.

Οι αντιληπτικοί εμπειρογνÏŽμονες μας λένε εμείς έχουν 6 δευτερÏŒλεπτα για να κάνουν μια πρÏŽτη εντÏπωση. Αυτή είναι η οπτική πλευρά της αντίληψης. Η προσωπική υγιεινή, με την πιθανή εξαίρεση μερικÏŽν grungers υψηλής τεχνολογίας, με χτυπά πρÏŽτα. Εάν η τρίχα είναι βρÏŽμικη, ντÏνει ακτένιστο και τα παποÏτσια λέρωσε έπειτα την αντίληψη, ορυχείο συμπεριλαμβανÏŒμενο, είναι ÏŒτι το άτομο δεν φροντίζεται ή τον ίδιο. Εάν δεν μποροÏν να φροντιστοÏν κατά τη μετάβαση σε μια συνέντευξη -- τι αυτοί να κάνει ÏŒταν μισθÏŽνεται; Τι λέει για έναν δίδοντα συνέντευξη εάν δεν φροντίζουν για την προσωπική εμφάνιση;

Πέρα απÏŒ το φυσικÏŒ, σκέφτομαι ÏŒτι παίρνουμε μια πιÏŒ προσωπική εικÏŒνα στα πρÏŽτα δÏο λεπτά μιας συνέντευξης. Αυτές είναι συχνά αδέξιες στιγμές "γεια, πÏŽς είστε, ευχαριστίες για τον ερχομÏŒ, καλÏŒ να σας δει", κ.λπ.... Αυτές οι αρχικές το στιγμές είναι ένας καλÏŒς δείκτης της συμπεριφοράς ενÏŒς ατÏŒμου κατά εξέταση τον άγνωστου και την καθορισμÏŒ του επιπέδου τους δεξιοτήτων ανθρÏŽπων. Αυτή η αρχική ψιλοκουβέντα θέτει επίσης το στάδιο για το υπÏŒλοιπο της συνέντευξης.

Στις Ηνωμένες Πολιτείες, τινάζουμε χέρι, ειδικά σε ένα επιχειρησιακÏŒ πλαίσιο. Εάν πάρω μια αδÏνατη αφή, ισχυρÏŒς άνδρας πιάσιμο, ή κατακÏŒρυφος που τραβά έπειτα θα αντιληφθÏŽ ÏŒτι το άτομο τείνει στο άκρο. ΜπορÏŽ να κάνω λάθος, αλλά για τον υποψήφιο η αντίληψη του ερευνητή είναι πραγματικÏŒτητα.

Αρχίζω συνήθως με να ζητήσω απÏŒ τον υποψήφιο για να μου δοθεί ένα σκίτσο νυχιÏŽν του αντίχειρα των δεξιοτήτων και των δυνατοτήτων τους. Οι περισσÏŒτεροι καταρτισμένοι υποψήφιοι μποροÏν συνήθως να δÏŽσουν μια σÏνοψη σε ένα λεπτÏŒ ή δÏο. ΑυτÏŒ δεν είναι μια δÏσκολη ερÏŽτηση αλλά απαιτεί ποικίλες δεξιÏŒτητες για να την τραβήξει μακριά. Εάν ο υποψήφιος δεν μπορεί να δηλÏŽσει τι μποροÏν να κάνουν έπειτα την επίπτωση είναι δεν μποροÏν να κάνουν τίποτα. ΠροφανÏŽς αυτÏŒ μπορεί να ισχÏει με μερικοÏς υποψηφίους και ÏŒχι με άλλους. Αλλά η αντίληψη είναι αντίληψη.

Βαθμιαία φτάνω γÏρω σε αυτÏŒ που ψάχνουν. Εκπληκτικά, κάποια απάντηση δεν ξέρουν. Εάν εμφανίζονται ειλικρινείς, "μην ξέρτε ÏŒτι" η απάντηση μπορεί να δει ως τίμια. Τις περισσÏŒτερες φορές, υπονοεί ÏŒτι ο υποψήφιος δεν έχει καμία φιλοδοξία ή δεν έχει σκεφτεί πάρα πολÏ. ΕδÏŽ η πραγματικÏŒτητα δημιουργεί την αντίληψη και είναι μια αρνητική.

Τι θέλω κανονικά να ακοÏσω είναι ψάχνουν μια ευκαιρία και μια πρÏŒκληση. ΑυτÏŒ σημαίνει ÏŒτι σε κάποιο σημείο ο υποψήφιος θα έχει "τον καπνÏŒ που βγαίνει απÏŒ την καπνοδÏŒχο τουσ". ΑυτÏŒ είναι ένας δείκτης της φιλοδοξίας, της κίνησης, της ηθικής εργασίας, κ.λπ.... Εάν δεν ψάχνουν την ασφάλεια και τη σταθερÏŒτητα και κανέναν καπνÏŒ αντιλαμβάνομαι συχνά ÏŒτι είναι σε το ακριβÏŽς για paycheck.

Αφησα τον υποψήφιο να κάνει την ομιλία και υποβάλλω ακριβÏŽς μια σειρά ερωτήσεων. Κοντά στο τέλος της συνέντευξης τους ρωτÏŽ συνήθως εάν έχουν οποιεσδήποτε ερωτήσεις για την επιχείρηση. Εκπληκτικά πάλι, πολλοί υποψήφιοι λένε ÏŒχι, ακÏŒμη και ÏŒταν δεν ξέρουν ουσιαστικά τίποτα για τον πιθανÏŒ μελλοντικÏŒ εργοδÏŒτη τους! Τι αντιλαμβάνομαι είναι μια καλή απάντηση είναι μια ή δÏο οξυδερκείς ερωτήσεις. Η μετάβαση σε μια μακροχρÏŒνια σειρά περίπλοκων ερωτήσεων είναι εξίσου κακή με μην έχοντας οποιεσδήποτε ερωτήσεις καθÏŒλου ÏŒλες.

Υπάρχουν διάφορες περιοχές που στέλνουν τις σημαίες επάνω στα διαφορετικά σημεία στη συνέντευξη. Εάν πηδοÏν δεξιά στο μισθÏŒ και τα οφέλη ξέρω ÏŒτι ενδιαφέρονται για αυτÏŒ που η επιχείρηση μπορεί να κάνει για τους έπειτα τι μποροÏν να κάνουν για την επιχείρηση. Εάν μιλοÏν κακÏŽς για τους προηγοÏμενους εργοδÏŒτες τους έπειτα ξέρω ÏŒτι θα έκαναν πιθανÏŽς το ίδιο πράγμα με την επιχείρησή μου. Εάν μου πουν τα μυστικά ή τις εμπιστευτικές πληροφορίες για τους προηγοÏμενους εργοδÏŒτες τους, ξέρω ÏŒτι θα κάνουν το ίδιο πράγμα σε με. Ο καλÏτερος προάγγελος της μελλοντικής συμπεριφοράς είναι προηγοÏμενη συμπεριφορά.

ΧρησιμοποιοÏμαι στους υποψηφίους που είναι νευρικοÏς αλλά οι πεπειραμένοι ερευνητές μποροÏν να πάρουν τους υποψηφίους για να χαλαρÏŽσουν. Ο μÏŒνος σκοπÏŒς της συνέντευξης είναι να ανακαλυφθεί εάν ο υποψήφιος θα είναι κατάλληλος για την επιχείρηση. ΑυτÏŒ φαίνεται πάρα πολÏ προφανές! ΑκÏŒμα πολλοί υποψήφιοι δεν καταλαβαίνουν αυτήν την απλή έννοια. Έχουμε μια πολÏ μικρή χρονική περίοδο για να καθορίσουμε εάν ο υποψήφιος είναι κατάλληλος να γίνει "μιας υποψηφίου απÏŒ οικογένειάς μασ". Και γιατί θα μισθÏŽναμε πάντα ένα προφανές πρÏŒβλημα;

Εκείνοι μας ÏŒτι οι συνεντεÏξεις συμπεριφοράς είναι άνθρωποι επίσης. Έχουμε τις αντιλήψεις μας: ο καλÏŒς, κακÏŒς και άσχημος.

Η διαφορά είναι εμείς αποφασίζει ποιος παίρνει μισθωμένος.

Περίπου ο συντάκτης

Ο Jack D. Deal είναι ο ιδιοκτήτης της επιχειρησιακής διαβοÏλευσης διαπραγμάτευσης. Τα σχετικά άρθραμποροÏν να βρεθοÏν σε http://www.jddeal.com και http://www.freeandinquiringmind.typepad.com



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March 05, 2008

Onde é que Mycroft Holmes quando nós realmente precisamos dele?

Como um miúdo, Sherlock Holmes foi o meu herói. Here was really a cool guy if there ever was one. Aqui foi realmente um cool guy se houver alguma vez foi uma delas. He knew almost everything about everything and could solve almost any crime, even crimes that had stumped Her Majesty's best. Ele sabia quase tudo sobre tudo e poderia resolver quase nenhum crime, mesmo crimes que tinha stumped Sua Majestade o melhor. But even Sherlock had his days. Mas mesmo Sherlock tiveram seus dias.

On those rare but revealing occasions when our good Sherlock was bested, he had to swallow his pride, no small task, and go and seek counsel with his older brother Mycroft. Pelos raras ocasiões em que a nossa, mas revelando boa Sherlock foi bested, teve que engolir seu orgulho, não uma tarefa pequena, e vá buscar conselho com o seu irmão mais velho Mycroft. Mycroft lived at the gentleman's club Diogenes, a place where few members spoke and all sipped their coffee and brandies and read the newspaper and looked at each other through the tops of their eyeglasses. Mycroft viveu no cavalheiros Diogenes clube, um lugar onde alguns deputados falaram e todos os seus sipped café e brandies e ler o jornal e olhei para si através dos tops de seus óculos. That's where Mycroft lived. That's Mycroft onde viveu. Mycroft also had some sort of government job but his exact duties and functions were unclear. Mycroft também tiveram algum tipo de trabalho, mas o seu governo precisa deveres e funções eram pouco claras.

Sherlock would approach Mycroft and Mycroft would immediately start this sarcastic teasing of Sherlock. Sherlock iria abordagem Mycroft e Mycroft iria começar imediatamente a esta sarcástico teasing de Sherlock. Only under the most extreme of circumstances would Sherlock go this route but there were times when he just couldn't get over the hump in the case. Somente sob as mais extremas de circunstâncias seria Sherlock ir esta rota, mas houve momentos em que ele simplesmente não conseguia durante o hump no caso. Even our man Sherlock could get stumped. Mesmo o nosso homem Sherlock poderia obter stumped.

After a fair amount of belittling, Mycroft would give Sherlock the hint and one almost wondered if in fact Sherlock already knew the answer, but just couldn't get it out. Depois de um justo valor de belittling, Mycroft daria Sherlock a dica e uma quase perguntou se de fato Sherlock já sabia a resposta, mas simplesmente não conseguia it out. And our poor hero Sherlock would slip away dragging his tail and feeling just a little bit wiser but a lot more foolish. Eo nosso pobre herói Sherlock seria afastado slip arrastando sua cauda e sentir apenas um pouco mais sensato, mas muito mais estúpido. Mycroft was Sherlock's comeuppance and reality check. Mycroft foi Sherlock's comeuppance ea realidade cheque.

Yet curse as he may, Sherlock knew he would use Mycroft again. Ainda maldição como ele pode, Sherlock sabia que ele iria usar Mycroft novamente. Sherlock knew there would come another case and he would have to go meekly before his brother and beg. Sherlock sabia lá viria outro caso, e que ele teria de ir meekly antes de seu irmão e mendigar. The only thing worse than shame is ignorance. A única coisa pior do que a vergonha é a ignorância.

Now whether Mycroft actually had the knowledge or just real good people skills is the question of the day. Agora se Mycroft realmente tinham o conhecimento real ou apenas pessoas boas habilidades, é a questão do dia. In the end Sherlock probably had the imagination and creativity to solve anything but at times just hit one of those mental blocks, as we humans are prone to do. No final Sherlock provavelmente teve a imaginação e criatividade para resolver tudo, mas, por vezes, basta clicar em um desses blocos mental, como seres humanos que são propensas a fazer.

Did Mycroft actually know the answer or did he know how to structure the perception and question to reveal the answer? Mycroft realmente fez saber a resposta nem ele sabe como estruturar a percepção ea questão para revelar a resposta? Did Sherlock always have the answer already within himself? Será que Sherlock ter sempre a resposta já dentro de si mesmo? Was Mycroft really too lazy to do the investigative work? Mycroft foi realmente muito preguiçosa para fazer o trabalho de investigação?

Would that our man Mycroft were around and on call today to help us out on this one. Oxalá o nosso homem Mycroft foram cerca de hoje e na chamada a ajudar-nos para fora sobre este. Like Sherlock we most likely would discover that a good dose of humility is a small price to pay for the right answer. Tal como Sherlock estamos muito provavelmente iria descobrir que uma boa dose de humildade é um pequeno preço a pagar para a resposta certa. The right answer can mean the difference between a project's success or failure. A resposta certa pode significar a diferença entre um projecto de sucesso ou fracasso. The wrong answer can lead one down a Narnian path to the twilight zone of no return. A resposta errada pode levar um Narnian estabelece um caminho para o crepúsculo zona de não retorno.

Mycroft's secret was he kept getting a bigger and bigger perspective on the problem. Mycroft do segredo foi mantido ele recebendo uma maior e mais perspectiva sobre o problema. At some point, he simply mastered it and moved on. Em algum momento, ele simplesmente domina-lo e sobre movida. Sherlock would hit dead end and like most of us throw up his hands in despair. Sherlock seriam atingidas beco sem saída e como a maioria de nós deitar-se as mãos em desespero. Not Mycroft. Não Mycroft. Mycroft didn't structure the problem that way in his mind so he didn't feel that frustration. Mycroft não estruturar o problema dessa maneira em sua mente para que ele não sinta que frustração. Mycroft didn't care. Mycroft não cuidado. Mycroft just kept trying to get the greatest perspective he could on the problem and then probe Sherlock's head to fill in the blanks and connect the dots. Mycroft apenas manteve a tentar obter o maior perspectiva podia sobre o problema e, em seguida, a sonda Sherlock cabeça para preencher os espaços vazios e nos a ligar os pontos.

Holmes certainly led a more exciting life but clearly excitement was not how Mycroft measured his own life. Holmes certamente levava uma vida mais excitante, mas é evidente entusiasmo não foi medido como Mycroft sua própria vida. Mycroft appears to be forever content sitting around the club reading the evening edition. Mycroft parece estar sempre em torno do conteúdo sessão clube leitura à noite edição. Or the morning edition. Ou edição da manhã. Or looking wistfully at clouds of tobacco smoke. Ou olhando wistfully em nuvens de fumo de tabaco. The club was Mycroft's reward for being Mycroft. O clube foi Mycroft's recompensa por ser Mycroft.

So in the end Mycroft probably didn't know the answer. Assim, no final Mycroft provavelmente não sabia a resposta. Mycroft was a club rat; it kept him insulated from the cruel and insane world, a world of which our man Sherlock was always knee deep in; rogues and scoundrels and that sort of thing. Mycroft era um clube em ratos; que ele manteve isolado da cruel e insano mundo, um mundo de que o nosso homem foi sempre Sherlock joelho em profundidade; rogues e scoundrels e esse tipo de coisa. In the end we have to conclude that Mycroft was nothing more than a well dressed guru pointing the way...and did perhaps Mycroft envy Sherlock? No fim das contas, temos de concluir que Mycroft não era nada mais do que um bem vestido guru que aponta o caminho ... e fez talvez Mycroft inveja Sherlock?

At any rate we Sherlock freaks would like even tougher cases and to see our man Sherlock having to squirm and run to Mycroft for more brotherly advice. De qualquer forma estamos Sherlock freaks gostaria casos e ainda mais duras para ver o nosso homem Sherlock squirm e ter que correr para Mycroft para mais fraterno conselhos. Sherlock seldom squirmed. Sherlock raramente squirmed. This is what it's all about and part of what make both Mycroft and Sherlock tick. Isto é o que está tudo e sobre aquilo que fazem parte de ambas as Mycroft e Sherlock carrapato. Well, at least Sherlock. Bom, pelo menos Sherlock.

With Mycroft it was all just one big crossword puzzle but for Sherlock it was a way of life so that is why Sherlock wallowed in it. Com Mycroft era tudo apenas um grande crossword puzzle, mas para Sherlock era um modo de vida, para que a razão pela qual Sherlock wallowed nele. Mycroft didn't have to. Mycroft não tiveram a. Sherlock was the populist; Mycroft the aloof landed gentry. Sherlock era o populista; Mycroft o aloof desembarcados gentry. Sherlock lived life; Mycroft experienced life vicariously since it was so much tidier that way. Sherlock viveu vida; Mycroft experiente vida vicariously desde que foi tanta que forma tidier. Two paths that cross through necessity. Dois caminhos que cruzam através necessidade.

Besides, our Sherlock would never be content with the dull, gentlemanly life of the Diogenes club, right Sir Doyle? Além disso, o nosso Sherlock nunca se contentar com a monótona, gentlemanly vida do clube Diogenes, direito Sir Doyle?
Author Resource:- Jack Deal is a Sherlock Holmes fan. Related articles may be found at http://www.jddeal.com/blog/business and http://www.freeandinquiringmind.typepad.com Autor Resource: - Jack Deal Sherlock Holmes é um fã. Artigos relacionados podem ser encontrados em http://www.jddeal.com/blog/business e http://www.freeandinquiringmind.typepad.com
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December 06, 2007

Marilyn Monroe's Mysterious Moving Mole

Marilyn wasn't my favorite actress growing up.  That heartache went to Grace Kelly.  Good choice.  Grace Kelly married a prince and Marilyn died of an overdose.  Or so it is thought. 

As a collectibles devotee my wife comes across various and sundry pieces of art and frames and such.  This particular picture had a cartoon type cat in it with a nice frame.  The wife didn't especially like the cat and neither did I.  So she goes to replace it and takes out the cardboard backing.   The backing is actually a photo of the full length portrait of a young woman in a somewhat skimpy outfit. 

The wife took out the cat and put the picture in, a good decision I must agree.  Real men are always pushing for progress.  She asks me who is in the picture and I said I don't know.  It was a very shapely and beautiful woman but I did not recognize her. 

"That's Marilyn," she said.  I looked and still didn't see it.   This woman looked to be nineteen or twenty. 

"Look at her mole," said my wife getting frustrated with my apparent lack of perception, "it's Marilyn's mole."

"But the hair is dark brown so this was a photo of her way back before she was a famous Hollywood blonde," I reply. 

All would have been fine and dandy had we left it like that but sometimes wives like to rub it in and then do it some more.  It's their job.  It's what they do.   

Every time we would come across any picture of Marilyn she would point the mole out to me.  Stupid me.  I never before had even noticed Marilyn had a mole.  I guess the truth of the matter was I probably wasn't looking at Marilyn's face.  Subsequently, I have asked a number of men about Marilyn's mole and no one claims to have any such mole knowledge. 

To make matters worse one day the wife points to a picture of Marilyn and glares at me.  I smile back.

"Marilyn," I say pretty sure and proud of myself.  This one was even blonde. 

"Men," she muttered, "the mole, look at the mole.  What do you see?" 

"I see it" I agreed, "there it is."

"Men," she muttered again, "it's on the wrong side of her face." 

I was sure at this point our intellectual conversation was going to cross into the abyss of the utter unknown.  I was speechless.   Marilyn Monroe said nothing.
 
"Okay,' then it must be a beauty mark and she changed it to shift her chakra balance," I reply. 

"That's really stupid.  A beauty mark supposedly would enhance a woman's looks...mostly white women.  Mostly pale white women.   Maybe men considered it beautiful and that's why she did it.  Maybe it was in her contract.  Whatever her reason she switched sides."

I was speechless.  There was nothing I could add to what had already been said.  Sherlock Holmes wins again.   It was if each time the dear wife would have to physically point to the mole for me to actually see it.  Men.  And to eventually verify that yes indeed the mole had jumped from one side of Marilyn's face to the other. 

What to make of it?  Well, my quick and immediate reaction was not much.  It would have to be classified as belonging to that department of totally useless information.  The wife was not pleased and being a sensitive husband, I could tell she was not pleased.  She felt offended that I would not take such a thing as Marilyn's moving mole very seriously.  I was speechless. 

There was no way I could sit there and explain just why Marilyn's mole was insignificant in the total scheme of Marilyn.   I knew that if I would ever attempt to enter that minefield I would for sure face rather harsh consequences.   I was in a marital bind and not looking very good any which way I looked.  Finally, it came to me. 

"It could have been a retouched photo," I offered, "a mole probably isn't such a big deal to switch.  Maybe we should look for more moles," I suggested. 

Silence.  That was a good sign.  It was a good sign in that maybe, just maybe the frustration level would get so high the wife would let it go.  Let go of Marilyn's mole that is.   I'm sure Marilyn is snickering from heaven, and she must be there for sure, at such silly attention to detail.   She would probably let out one of those blondie laughs for which she was famous. 

That laugh and now her famous mysterious moving mole.


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December 03, 2007

Yes Virginia, There is an Allegorical, Metaphorical, and Culturally Neutered Santa Claus

As a tyke I remember Santa Claus and the big to do at Christmas. Maybe it was more important back then...today the affluence and indifference of our modern angst has probably diminished both Christmas' and Santa's influence.

If marketers in fact invented Santa then they did one heckuva job. From the earliest times I could remember 'what is Santa bringing you this year' or 'did you write Santa a letter yet? 'Have you been a good little boy this year?' My relationship with Mr. Claus was certainly not atypical of my time and space; all the other kids bought into the same argument. I also understood that Santa's gig was unconditional and even if I had done a few naughty things he would most likely overlook them. Ho, Ho, Ho...which if we are to understand, means something totally different now.

As I got a little more world wise and got out and about, especially starting to play with other kids and go into their homes and see whole new families, I began to wonder. Some of the kids said Santa was a fairy tale and others said their parents didn't believe in Santa so they didn't either. Others said it was stupid to write a letter to Santa because parents buy the gifts anyway.

Not believe in Santa? Not write the obligatory wish list? My God! As a four year old it was hard to imagine how anyone could not like the guy...what was there not to like? But there were always those smart aleck kids that would say things like 'we don't have a chimney here in Florida, is Santa going to leave us out?'

Of course not I would reply defending his scruples, Santa didn't leave anybody out. Santa was an equal opportunity distributor. But there was something fishy as the evidence slowly came in that it was in fact ma and pa who went to the store and bought the gifts; not Santa making them up at the North Pole with a bunch of elves and delivering them in an anti-gravity delivery sleigh.

Then, like millions of other baby boomer kiddies, I came to the stark and unbelievably cruel conclusion that Santa did not exist. Upset and shattered, I cried to ma that it looks like my man Santa was a cruel hoax hoisted on me by those that thought it funny to tell little boys lies. Oh, cruel world!

Thank goodness for ma. Had it not been for her I would have lost all faith in humanity for ever right then and there and become a hardened cynic. Creating something like Santa and then taking him back, especially from four year olds, just did not seem like the American thing to do. It wasn't fair play.

It was clear to me back then that little babies came into the world not knowing anything and pretty much everything they know is taught to them by their loving families. Why would these loving families tell them such a lie?

Ma finally confirmed the news that Santa did not come down the heater vent. In fact, Santa did not bring any of my presents. People invented Santa because they needed him and needed to believe in something like Santa. It was a nice story in the old days and we keep telling it today; sort of make believe to make us feel good.

Whew. Thank goodness for ma setting Santa straight for me. I was beginning to wonder if I was wrapped right which is a bit much for a four year old that has just started to get out into the world.

Things changed with my son. By the time he came along everything was hip and cool and Santa was becoming even more popular. But my son never came and asked was Santa real. He knew the answer already.

Sure the concept of Santa has changed over the years. The sheer amount of commercialism has made even Santa a bit trying at times. Santa as a concept sort of faded into the background as I raised a family and traveled the world.

A Santa concept. Hmmm...

The latest brain research lends great credence that concepts created by the mind can in fact become the mind's reality. Hmm... Does that mean that if the concept is accepted by the mind it in fact becomes reality? Depending on which cognitive behavioral expert you ask, the answer is a 'probably so'.

So at this point, Virginia, we can say that Santa probably exists, at least in some people's psyches. That is a big step up from sheer myth and fantasy. If people way back created Santa because they needed him maybe we can do the same. And maybe we need to.

So here Virginia I have evolved full circle from total belief, shocked disbelief, reality assessment, and on to conceptual integration and assimilation. Or something like that.

Maybe it's the crazy idea of some gone cat unconditionally handing out toys to every kid in the whole wide world. Maybe it's the hope that someone like Santa could do such deeds and not have a hidden agenda or secret business plan.

Yes Virginia, Santa exists in the frontal lobes and cerebrum of every child that lets him go there. So don't forget to write your letter to Santa and hang your stocking near the heater vent. And don't feel badly when your insensitive intellectual friends make fun of you for believing in fairy tales.

Just tell them fairy tales are culture and culture is us. Rest assured that our dear friend Santa Claus will always exist as long as we need him to.

Ho, Ho, Ho!


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September 29, 2007

A World War I Soldier's Photo Album: Gas, Guts and Eternal Glory?

Grandpa collected a series of 350 or so photos, reprints and postcards from World War I when he was an American soldier.  For some reason he wanted to save all the pictures and they fill almost two albums.  

Maybe it was knowing that one day someone like me would look at the pictures and reflect on the true nature of war.  Who knows.  But whatever his reasons I'm glad he saved them.  The effect of looking at the albums is sobering.

Not much glory there in Grandpa's photo.  He looked like he could have been any young kid from any state.  Or any country for that matter.  It was his soldier's photo album and World War I was the event of his life.  It was like that for many that survived.

The war ended in 1918 and grandpa died in 1960.  Almost everyone that fought in that great war is now dead.  That much I do know.     

The first album is full of soldier buddy shots and shots from towns and cities in Europe, mostly France.   The pictures also include numerous shots of the battlefields at Rheims and Belleau Wood, two of the war's bloodiest battle sites.

The second album is almost entirely battlefield scenes.   

It was a war not fought in the air or sea but on land and in the trenches.  Funny how 'in the trenches' is still with us today.  World War I will be remembered as the last trench warfare or the last war where one could literally see the whites of the enemy's eyes, though maybe a couple of hundred yards away.  

One side charged and would capture the other side's trench.   The other side would make a hasty retreat and leave everything behind, including their dead and wounded.  After a while they would counterattack. Day after day.  Week after week.  Month after month.

The casualty rate was off the charts.   The battlefields were often littered with the dead as they did not have time to bury them.  And it was not safe outside the trenches.

There is a photo of a soldier in a trench behind barbed wire.  The barbed wire was supposed to help stop the other side from charging right into your trench.  He is barely visible behind the tangle of barbed wire.  The constant attacks, the poison gas, the bombardments; it all added up to a trip to hell.  Not much to smile about.  The face is not real clear behind the barbed wire but it's apparent he is not smiling.

The Germans looked so much like us.  How long does it take a corpse to become a bare skeleton?   I imagine somewhere a German is looking at a similar album and remarking how they 'look so much like us -- how long does it take the meat on a head to rot and leave just a skull?'

In between the trenches was 'no man's land' or the area that no one controlled.   There are numerous photos of no man's land and dead soldiers and mostly destroyed countryside.   Aerial shots show it wasn't just no man's land that was leveled, much of the surrounding countryside in a battle was also destroyed.

It was standard military strategy to bombard a trench for days to loosen it up and demoralize the troops before charging.  The intent was to destroy morale but it also destroyed most of the surrounding landscape. Charging was often done by letting out a yell, standing up and running straight for the enemy trenches, just like it had been done for centuries.

Horses were used to pull wagons and artillery.  There is a photo of U.S. troops headed to battle pulling their artillery with horses.    A lot of horses also died.   One photo shows a dead horse that was blown up into a tree. 

Supposedly WWI was the last war that poison gas was allowed.  Oddly enough the countries that used mega bombs and gargantuan artillery felt gas was too deadly so it was outlawed by treaty.  I'm not sure if technically it is more humane to kill by bullet or by gas.  As a result only renegades like Saddam Hussein use poison gas.  

The real problem was poison gas was heavier than air so it would sink into the trenches.   If a gas canister filled your trench the best defense was to get out and of course right into the line of fire from enemy snipers.  That was part of the idea; your choice, whiff of gas or a bullet through the head. 

Potent gases like chlorine gas and mustard gas would either burn the lungs out or instantly destroy the central nervous system.  One whiff and it was over.   

After the war the world was mad so it made Germany pay war reparations and the German economy collapsed.  In the early 1920's inflation wiped out any hopes of an economic recovery and the conditions were set for Adolf Hitler and the Nazi party to take their turn.  And they did.

I felt a bit queasy after viewing all the photographed carnage especially knowing this wasn't a Hollywood set.  No Charlie Chaplin or Tom Mix in these pictures.  Just the boys next door, ma'am.  And the boys next door from another country, too.

Of course WWI did not end all wars and there have been a number of bad ones since.  Or rather it might be more correct to say that there have been no good wars since.  Maybe. 

It all depends on our perspectives and what we learned from Grandpa's war. 


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September 24, 2007

Pinata Man

I was trying to think of the year when this happened and I figured it out because the baby was maybe a year old  then.   We had driven down from El Paso and crossed the Eastern Sierras on some very sketchy roads to spend Christmas or Navidad at our home in central Veracruz on the Gulf Coast. 

For some reason I have always enjoyed Navidad in Mexico; it's definitely not as commercial at least among the limited income people we knew.  We lived on a farm.   Gift giving was usually left for the sixth of January or Day of the Wise Men so there wasn't a lot of gifts anyway...

What I enjoyed were the Posadas or  Rest Stops the Magi took to find baby Jesus.   On each night of the twelve days of Christmas someone would have a party.   These were fun affairs with maybe some tamales and atole or corn drink.   Everyone was in a festive mood and of course there was the ubiquitous pinata; a must for every posada. 

It is perhaps not so easy for foreigners to understand just what a pinata does but very often it is the highlight of the party.   The pinata is strung up by rope on a  pole or tree and the rope is pulled by someone while the blindfolded participant swings wildly with a stick and the crowd jeers.   Everyone likes this merriment and the pinata always draws a large crowd.

On this particular night we were going to an ejido or communal farm for a Posada, the three of us in our VW.   As I approached the center of the ejido I realized this was not the small Posada we thought we were attending; the whole community was out in masse for this one.

I turned off the lights and parked.   We got out and were sitting on the hood watching the fun; there were maybe four hundred people there.   One after the other, adult and child,  took their turn at the pinata while the onlookers hooted.   The mood was festive and the cool Veracruz air made it quite a night...

As we watched two men took the stick and began to walk toward us.   My heart sank, oh my god...and they kept coming walking through the  crowds as the onlookers stepped aside.   They came right up to  me and handed me the stick.  My turn.  My turn to make a fool out of myself and have everyone laugh at me.   

Of course I stood out; I look like a German.   Everyone else around me including my wife was mestizo and Indian.  Time to have some fun with the Gringo...

I knew I had to take it.   It was a matter of being a part of the community; we knew a lot of people there and my wife had some relatives too...so it  was a choice of being a fool or a poor sport.   I knew the poor sport was not in my behavioral repetoire in Mexico so I took it.   They escorted me to pinata, blindfolded me and spun me around several times so I would lose my bearings.   

They would tease me by allowing me to touch the pinata with my stick but they were not  going to let me hit it.     That was OK.  I had to show I was making an effort or the fun would be dampened.   So I swung wildly and floundered and the crowd roared.   Finally it was over and they stopped me and took off the blindfold.   All were laughing and nodding approvingly and I felt the mission was accomplished.   

These are the people that 'adopted' me as a teenager when I drove a motorcycle to Mexico.   They were my friends, family and community.   And if they realize I'm a good sport and they get a few laughs that's fine...I don't mind and I bet my wife was laughing too.   

I accepted the culture and it in turn accepted me.  For that I am eternally grateful...and watch out for the pinatas...

Jack  D. Deal


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September 03, 2007

Howdy Doody and Charlie McCarthy: 20th Century Cultural Icons

The other week at a collectibles show I  bought a Charlie McCarthy toy puppet and actually confused him with Howdy Doody.  The guy standing beside me thought Charlie McCarthy was Howdy Doody too.   Subsequent viewers of my puppet have also made the same mistake and I didn't find out until I checked him out on Ebay.  Some newer viewers think Charlie is from a recent horror flick that was, as they say, very scary.   One went so far as to say he would not be able to sleep with Charlie McCarthy in the same room.   What's this bizarre world coming too?  Go figure...

Charlie McCarthy was of course the puppet from ventriloquist comic Edgar Bergen;  hence, Edgar Bergen and Charlie McCarthy.   I remember as a very young lad listening to Edgar and Charlie.  Charlie was always a wise donkey and always saying the wrong thing.   Edgar would call Charlie a dummy and Charlie wouldn't like it and make a sarcastic reply. The audience would roar.   Charlie would bicker constantly with Edgar and the dialogue was a bit edgy for back then but somehow Edgar could pull it off by blaming it on the misbehaving puppet.  Edgar would  act upset and embarrassed by Charlie and we all felt badly for poor Edgar.  It was zippy and even my mother laughed.   A few years later my attention changed focus and I fell in love with Candace, Edgar's movie actress daughter, but then again so did every other male adolescent at that time so the competition was pretty stiff...and she eventually married someone else.      

Howdy Doody was partners with Buffalo Bob.   They had a little kiddie show with Howdy doing most of the antics as if he were all wired up on speed...a nervous kind of guy,always jumping around since of course Howdy was a marionette.   Buffalo Bob, a real person, would dress in a buckskin frontier suit...sort of like Daniel Boone without the hat.  Buffalo Bob would always tell the kids in the studio audience 'No comments from the peanut gallery' when they would laugh or heckle.   It's a term I still use today and I wonder how many in my age bracket use the same expression.   The Howdy Doody show was nonsense and all us bright American kids knew it was nonsense but we loved it anyway.   Which was good, because not too many years later we would be faced with life's cold realities where many of us would wish we were back in the peanut gallery with our old pals Howdy Doody and Buffalo Bob.   

Through the years Howdy and Charlie have come and gone.   As time passes we even confuse the two. But somehow we came away with a cultural legacy by growing up with these guys.  They were our heroes, our friends and in a way our first introductions to the outside world.   When Buffalo Bob died a few years back they ran clips of the shows on TV and pictures in the newspaper and somehow I could still identify with it after all those years.   No one can live forever, not even Buffalo Bob or Howdy, but their legacy as culture goes on through all us kiddie fans from years past.         

But of course that's how culture works.   It comes and it goes.  It is the partnering of the ego with society.  And maybe at some point in the future when folks are a lot smarter than we are and can figure things out a lot better, they will analyze what effect Howdy and Charlie had on the development of Modern America.    And kids will catalogue Howdy and Charlie in their cultural icon database.  And watch video clips and write reports on what it might have been like to be sitting in the peanut gallery, no comments and all.    

We all need a sense of belonging, of having a cultural home...and when I saw the clips of Howdy I said 'yep, that's my culture all right.'   That's me.  With Buffalo Bob and the participatory peanut gallery who needs  kings and epics and revolutions and all that sort of heavy tradition?  Howdy and Charlie give me a cultural place to hang my hat...and in some strange way I take comfort in being able to do that.  It must be we all need a place to hang our cultural hats.   It gives us a sense of who we are, even if we still are only the adoring fans of a couple of wooden dummies...      

And really, how can any snob dare say America has produced no culture when we have such cultural icons as Howdy  Doody and  Charlie McCarthy? 

No comments from the peanut gallery?   

Jack D. Deal


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August 18, 2007

Corporate Culture

Corporate culture is important but it tends to be elusive, corporate culture is loosely defined as the attitudes, behaviours and personalities that make up a company. In other words, it is how we view our work and ourselves. If we accept this general definition, the next thought is: how does it apply?

Through my consulting, articles, web site and radio show, I have been asked the question, 'Yeah, we know what it is - but what does it do?' Fortunately, and unfortunately, I have been an eyewitness to a fascinating case study. My case study involved two similar businesses, about the same size, and in the same industry. Both were struggling financially. Upon my initial analyses, both businesses had good potential and both retained me to help them grow, create wealth and sustain profitability. Both had very similar problems and both had owners that were ego-driven and hard workers. There was never a question in either company of the willingness to work hard. There was, however, a great deal of difference in the results.

After my analysis and employee interviews, I determined that both owners were holding their businesses back. Both owners acknowledged they were a problem in their own companies. The owner of Company A became convinced he was such a problem that, for his business to grow, he paradoxically had to leave it. He turned his decision-making and management over to me. The owner of Company B also acknowledged he was part of the problem, but decided that by working harder, he could overcome the problems he created.

The first thing I did at company A was to fire some minimal employees and hire some better ones. I then turned the company over to them. The absentee owner of Company A expressed his concern at doing this but accepted it. He understood there was no alternative. I walked the managers through some tough decisions and encouraged them. They made mistakes but I made certain the mistakes were small ones and I encouraged them to learn and move on. After several months, some very interesting developments occurred: (a) a fierce company loyalty developed among all employees; (b) they would not let the absentee owner make any decisions; (c) my intervention became less and less necessary - all employees constantly discussed how to improve productivity and deliver more value to the customer; (d) profitability increased to the point that all employees got raises; (e) morale steadily improved; (f) Company A began to gain market share. Company B took a different route. The owner did not want to fire any minimal employees because he had become a friend and "father-figure" to them. The owner began to work longer and longer hours. He began to distrust his best people.

After several months, some interesting developments occurred: (a) the stress level of all employees went up; (b) several key people quit; (c) Company B was not able to attract good employees; (d) employees began to resent the micromanagement style and looked for ways to get back at the company; (e) more and more intervention was necessary on my part to keep the status quo; (f) profitability decreased and customers were lost. Six months later, the results were not surprising. Company A was growing steadily, morale was high and their employees were the highest paid in the industry. Employees enjoyed coming to work and worked very hard. They constantly were looking for ways to improve and look for new customers and markets. Company B downsized and filed for protected bankruptcy. Employees were discouraged and many began looking elsewhere for work. Customers noticed that Company B was in trouble and took their business elsewhere.

These two examples are extremes and I was most fortunate at having the opportunity to carefully examine both. I think about them both quite often and have resolved to make 'corporate culture' an even higher priority in my work. Since people drive a business, corporate culture has become the vehicle to get to the desired destination.

Jack D. Deal


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August 07, 2007

Why Mexicans Love the U.S.A. and Why It Matters

Mexicans love the U.S.   The average Mexican has a highly favorable view of the U.S.   Most Mexicans have family or friends living in the U.S.  Wal-Mart and Burger King are accepted with open arms.   Political rhetoric aside, Mexico may be the most  pro-U.S. country in the world.   Even the word Gringo has lost most of its negative meaning in recent years... 

Mexicans are often rated by sociology polls as one of the happiest countries on earth.   Yet when the immigrate and adopt the American Dream they become neurotic just like Americans.   Perhaps this is because they are separated from the strong family and friends support network.  Is that what makes them so happy?

And boy do they sure buy stuff from us!  One Mexican told me that Mexicans have adopted the American Dream and even if they can't live in the U.S., they can still buy a little of that dream at Costco and McDonald's.   The tractor trailor traffic at  Tiajuana, Mexicali, Cd. Juarez, Nuevo Laredo and Reynosa is amazing.   San Diego, Calexico, El Paso, Laredo and McCallen are prospering from this trade boost.   

Mexico is changing rapidly.   On a recent three month road trip, I was not harrassed or asked for money by any government official; local, state or national.   All officials were helpful, courteous, and concerned for my safety.   Economically, a Mexican middle class is growing and their upwardly mobile, democratic and pro-Western views are becoming mainstream.   Corruption is down and commerce up. 

Politics is another matter.   Most Mexicans, like most Americans, have skepticism about their government and politicos.   With three parties of roughly equal strength, Mexican politics remains as much a juggling act as a political process.   Most Mexicans see their government as an obstacle in need of reform and they are impatient with the rate of progress.   Mexicans increasingly view their own politicians as a bigger negative than the Yanks to the North, who are increasingly viewed in a positive light.   The American political process, despite its flaws, continues to be admired. 

Mexico is profoundly capitalist nation with an estimated 40 million small vendors and informal business owners.   The normal Mexican work week is Monday through Saturday, not Friday and many of the self employed work seven days a week.   Many Mexicans feel insulted by Castro and Chavez and communist Zapatista Commandante Marcos is a favorite topic of Mexican jokes.   

Mexicans feel their country is really two countries woven into a national fabric; the northern tier states generate most of the country's economy and cities like Culiacan and Monterey look more like Texas.  The agriculture in Sonora and Sinaloa more resembles California agriculture and has little to do with hand planted cornfields.   Many U.S. companies in manufacturing, distribution, agriculture and transportation now have a presence in Northern Mexico including Holiday Inn,  KFC and Sears.   

Most Mexican families now have relatives living and working in the U.S. and along the border.   These family members not only send remittances but also take back U.S. culture and values with them to Mexico when they return.   Many more have friends in the U.S.   The net effect  of all this goodwill ambassadorship is that  the countries are becoming much closer on a family, friendship and business level.   

But Mexico loses big with immigration with a brain and skilled worker drain.   Many of Mexico's brightest, hardest working and most skilled citizens are now working in the U.S.   Mexican workers are creating wealth and assets in the U.S. 

And English has invaded Mexico.   In Monterrey most restaurants now have English/Spanish menus with English often listed first.   In Vera Cruz city, it is chic and fashionable to address your friends and colleagues with hip English phrases and words,  much the same as French was chic in mid-20th century America.   Everyone is trying to learn English and English is now being taught in elementary schools.   

Mexico's greatest resource is of course it's people.   The resoucefulness,  intelligence and work ethic of the Mexican worker is limitless.   Mexico has as great an economic potential as any country in Latin America.   Mexicans look to the American system of government and economics and not to the retroactive policies of Cuba and Venezuela.   

I have lived and travelled in Mexico for almost 40 years and each time I go I feel more welcome.   I for one, love Mexico and its people.   


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August 04, 2007

Porque Los Gringos Deben Hablar Espanol

1) Simplemente porque tú eres Norte Americano y hablas solamente inglés, no deberías sentirte lingüísticamente inferior. Porque si eres Norte Americano y hablas solamente inglés, ya sabes miles de palabras en español. Tú solamente no sabes que son palabras en español. Palabras como “taco”, “salsa” y “cerveza” no son palabras inglesas. ¡Quizás sea una gran sorpresa para algunos de ustedes, pero espera a que termine mi historia!

2) Mundialmente, nosotros los Norte Americanos somos reconocidos internacionalmente por ser Monolingües, esto significa que sólo hablamos una lengua. A nosotros ésto no nos avergüenza, pero somos los últimos en esta carrera. La mayoría de los europeos son multilingües. ¡Qué ventaja! Es que ellos no son estúpidos. Si un europeo vive en una región donde se habla más de una lengua, ellos aprenden la nueva lengua. Es sencillo. A menos que sean franceses, ellos no resisten la oportunidad de conocer otras lenguas. Las lenguas no son los enemigos, son nuestros amigos. Y como nuestros amigos, mientras más amigos conozcas siempre es mejor. Pero muchos de nosotros insistimos en hacer excusas tal como, “Yo no puedo aprender español porque lo confundiré con mi inglés y se me olvidarían los dos.” ¿En serio? Tú puedes diferenciar los “Mets” de los “Yankees”, ¿pero no “adiós” del “good-bye”?

3) Los Americanos declaramos que tenemos un Monolingüe Gene en nuestro ADN y la ciencia lo descubrirá uno de estos días ….

4) El Paranoico de los Monolingües. Tengo malas noticias y creo que debería de sentarte mientras te cuento, porque esto no va ser fácil para mí tampoco. Yo soy el soso muchacho que no pareciera que hablara español detrás de ti en la línea. Créeme que los empleados de Mc Donald no están hablando de ti. Tú solamente eres el cliente que ordenaste seis “Big Macs”. La familia, los novios, las novias, los niños, la escuela y hasta sus trabajos son más importantes que lo que acabas de ordenar. Tal vez sea tiempo de que aprendas un poco de español para que no parezcas un tonto. Ya desearías que esa mesera tan guapa estuviera hablando de ti… en tus sueños. Si hablarás español, supieras que solamente eres para ella otro cliente que ordena comida.

5) El comercio nacional. Si tu compañía u organización ofrece productos y servicios para la comunidad de habla hispana, deberías de tener en tus planes el implemento de la lengua española. Tú perderías mucha clientela si no puedes comunicarte con ellos. Además no es el problema de ellos, es tú problema. Es dinero que no llega a tu bolsillo. Al menos los jugadores de póker tienen la oportunidad de poner una apuesta… si tú perdieras a los clientes hispanohablantes, tú pierdes y ni siquiera pudiste jugar en esta mano.

6) Los negocios latinoamericanos crecen cada día más, al mismo tiempo que las demandas de los productos y servicios. Las compañías que se comunican en inglés y español son los que tienen más ventajas. ¡Además, aprender el inglés y el español es relativamente fácil y una divertida forma de competir con China, Korea del Norte, Iran, Islandia, Cuba y Venezuela!

7) Turismo. El turismo crecerá más y más, y mientras se mezclan las culturas, ¿no sería mala idea aprender otra lengua?

8) Los Latinos Culpables. Si el español se convirtiera en la segunda lengua oficial de los Estados Unidos, los latinos que solamente hablan inglés aprenderían el español y se sentirían más patrióticos. Los que no son latinos no deben hablar de este tema...

9) Espontáneo activo vocabulario. Es espontáneo porque ocurre instantáneamente o rápidamente sin ninguna pausa para la traducción. El vocabulario activo significa que es reconocido y pertenece al hablante; ellos no tienen que buscar necesariamente las palabras en el diccionario. Ya que tú conoces tantas palabras en español, ahora ya tienes un buen comienzo. Si tú conoces las palabras necesarias y sabes como usarlas, todo lo que te hace falta es la fluidez del idioma. ¿Por qué hacerlo más complicado de lo que es?

10) Las raíces o cognados son las mismas en inglés que en español, o casi iguales. Palabras como “natural”, “national” y “hamburger” traducidos en español son natural, nacional y hamburguesa. Esto suena fácil, pero se estima que el 25% de todas las palabras en inglés y en español son derivados de las mismas raíces. ¡Esto es una gran ventaja para todos ustedes que se sienten hoy lingüísticamente inferiores!

11) Los Modelos Europeos y Escandinavos. Las lenguas escandinavos son difíciles. Es por eso que ellos se reunieron una vez y dijeron, “Nosotros preferimos aprender el inglés que estas lenguas tan difíciles que el resto de ustedes hablan.” ¿Quién puede culparlos? Así es como el inglés se convirtió en la lengua oficial de Escandinava. Solamente duró 40 años o dos generaciones para este cambio. Para los negocios y las urgencias educativas, Chile desea hacerlo en 20 años o en una generación. Esto puede ser posible si tuviéramos la inteligencia de los escandinavos y el valor de los chilenos. Inteligencia y valor son algo que los escandinavos y los chilenos tienen en común. Las investigaciones iniciales demuestran que desafortunadamente los monolingües no tienen necesariamente estas dos calidades.

12) Chile: Una Nación Bilingüe. La geografía de Chile es como un ejote. Tienen a un lado al continente Pacifico y a los Andes al otro extremo. Ellos solamente son 15 millones pero son especiales porque, con la excepción de Costa Rica, ellos son los únicos en Latino América que han podido mantener aflote su economía. Ellos no tienen un enorme poder militar, pero viven en uno de los continentes más inestables políticamente. Los chilenos tienen coraje. Los ciudadanos del país de Chile no tienen miedo de aprender inglés. Declarando inglés como la segunda lengua oficial, Chile se ha comprometido a construir su potencial humano proporcionando el acceso a la educación, la tecnología y al negocio. Los chilenos son tan inteligentes, que no escogieron el francés. ¿Por qué quieres aprender francés en California? ¿Cuándo fue la última vez que escuchaste a alguien hablar en francés en el supermercado “Safeway” o en una partida de fútbol Americano “Forty Niners”? En California, el francés ni siquiera está en cablevisión. ¡Mon deux, Monsieur!

Quizá ya es tiempo de decidir que el español es nuestra segunda lengua oficial. Quizá nuestro país, sabemos que es tiempo para comenzar a competir y obtener una ventaja competitiva con las lenguas.

Jack D. Deal


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August 01, 2007

Can All Californians Please Speak English, Por Favorcito?

California has an English problem. A big English problem. 1.5 Million kids do not know English well enough to be taught in English. And no, it’s not just the illegal immigrants. 85% of those in English Proficiency programs are born in the U.S.

Spanish-speaking Latino children make up the vast majority of these English deficient students. As a result, the graduation rate for Latino males is about 50%, meaning half of these students don’t get a high school diploma. These students are not only left out of high school but also junior college. No English, no college. And essentially no education.

The cost to California is enormous. It’s not just that some of these students join gangs or become involved in crimes. Most don’t. But even those that don’t are cut far short from their individual potential. In the land of opportunity, English is the showstopper.

The California State Department of Education acknowledges that it takes 4-7 years for a monolingual student to become English proficient or be able to enter an English-speaking classroom. In our local school district the superintendent says the average is six years. That means that if a Spanish-speaking student enters the first grade it will be until Middle School or Junior High before they can be mainstreamed in English. But at that point, how far are they behind in the regular curriculum?

How many years can a student fall behind and still remain in the educational system? One year? Two years? Six years? Is there a correlation between English proficiency and the high school graduation rate? One doesn’t have to be an analyst to see the clear cause and effect. Statewide the districts with the highest number of English proficiency students also have the lowest standardized test scores.

How can this be possible in the land of opportunity and No Child Left Behind? Has California simply sent up the white flag?

The answer is that English is not just the school’s responsibility. English is not just another subject like history or science. English is the communication key -- California’s communication key. Without that key, the doors to opportunity in California remain shut. Slammed shut. Those that think a student can get by in California without English are clearly from another planet.

But if the schools are not totally responsible, who is? As the old saying goes, we have met the enemy and it is us. If the average person actively studies a foreign language several hours a day, in six months they should be at a simple, basic conversational level with an active vocabulary of 1500-2500 words. In two years they should be fluent enough to mainstream into classes taught in that language.

There is a solution.

First, communities must demand their leaders rearrange their priorities to address this disaster. Those that refuse should not get support or votes from teachers, parents or concerned citizens.

Secondly, as soon as that student fails the English Proficiency test, they should sit down with the teacher and their parents to sign an English Contract. Students, parents and teacher sign a contract stating that in six months they will meet again except this time the interview will be in English. Maybe not fluent English, but English. Right then and there they set the date and time for the appointment. The student and parents are held accountable. Period. No charades or evasions.

Anyone can learn English. It may not be easy, but everyone can do it. In California they have to. It is not optional. These students are California’s future.

Jack D. Deal


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July 29, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Palenque and What Happened to the Maya?

The highway out of Chetumal is under construction and one of those new superhighways that is connecting the major points on the peninsula. I wonder why we can’t build such roads in Veracruz, especially since there is only one route down the Gulf Coast. Campeche, Yucatan and Quintana Roo states are very serious about development and the required infrastructure to do it – maybe that’s the answer.

      We pass through poor Maya towns and it is obvious the countryside remains poor. There is some agriculture but not much. We see a few cane fields and a few cattle ranches but eventually the jungle wins again and it is impenetrable and impossible…

      There are a few rolling hills as we go along and it’s certainly not as flat as the Merida – Can Cun route. It’s green and greener and I imagine in 500 years will be populated with German eco-resort zones and Maya communities. Maybe it will only take a 100 years.

      We zip along and I can see the double tractor trailor beer trucks headed to Cancun and Playa del Carmen. Those Germans must drink as much beer as we Mexicans, ha!

      Angelica says it’s finally time we visit some ruins and we pull over at Xpujil. Sometimes I have to give in and admit she is right. Although we didn’t come for the ruins; we can’t go back without seeing some. Such is life. We park and go through the entrance and she asks the ranger if the ruins are worth seeing – as if he will say no. She sometimes says the strangest things…

      We walk down the path and see some of the same trees we have back in Tierra Blanca, but they are thinner and go straight up before they branch out. Such is the jungle. Everything fights for the sun. We see some mounds that have not been excavated and she takes some pictures of me standing by them…I tell her I am going to tell my gullible California friends these are some ruins I discovered while hiking through the jungle. We goof ball Californians will believe anything, ha!

      The ruins are actually nice and well done…not sure how many more ruins we will visit along the way. Except for Palenque. We climb up some very narrow steps in the narrow temple. The Maya were, and are, certainly a short people – am curious about how we will get down. We do it but have to back down…maybe it’s some sort of sacred ritual.

      The odd thing is these ruins were discovered in the late 1930’s by you guessed it, a German archaelogist. Such is life. How the Maya could live so close by in villages and not know these types sites existed is beyond my simple comprehension. They must have been a very provincial people that were very afraid of getting lost in the jungle. The Germans may be afraid of many things but getting lost in the jungle is not one of them…

      We head back onto the highway which begins to curve through some low lying hills. We can see cutoffs to other ruins and even some eco-tourism resorts…the Germans are already here. I should have known and will have to reassess my development estimate…. The countryside is lush and green and supposedly protected…we get out for a stretch but don’t venture far into the bush – once lost it would be hectic!

      About halfway to Escarcega the highway construction begins and it’s clear this will be a major highway route very soon. It must be a faster route to Can Cun than the Campeche - Merida route. We pass through a string of small towns with names like Xbonil and Conhuas – Maya names. And then El Centenario, La Libertad and my favorite – Justicia Social. I didn’t stop to find out how they got their names but it must be an interesting story and a task for the next trip…

      We stop for a bite to eat in Escarcega and can see the construction all around. Because of its strategic location it is set to boom big time here. It is the crossroads to the peninsula. We head out of town and even more highway construction. It’s hard to tell if the highways will be four lanes or the Texas-style large two lane ones; but they will be fast and well made. I wonder if the progress will touch all the residents on the peninsula or just make life more difficult and expensive for many. The influx of euros and dollars will make it interesting…

      We hit some dark clouds and downpours and it’s hard to see so I have to slow down…the wind also picks up. Fortunately our beleaguered car will get a much needed bath and a freshwater rinse of all the Riviera Maya salt. I feel like I need a rinse too.

      Outside of El Aguacatal we stop for some queso de hebra or string cheese. Angelica has this obsession for this type of cheese and we are constantly stopping for it.   The seller pulls out a few pictures of some exotic birds his ‘friend’ has for sale and asks if I would be interested. Everybody living in the jungle has to hustle something on the side…

      We cross into Chiapas and the road changes and I will miss those great Campeche highways. At the same time the countryside becomes more dense and it starts to rain so the effect is highlighted. We can see all kinds of small lakes and ponds and swampy areas…lowlands that must be filled with mosquitoes. We see some large sugar cane farms and even some with airplanes…so not all in Chiapas are poor. But from the stats, Chiapas is Mexico’s poorest state – the very bottom.

      We turn off the road to Villahermosa and head for Palenque. The hills become more pronounced and there are signs for hotels and tours and the things that tourists like. Just as it becomes more hilly we enter Palenque and I am surprised at how big it is. I can aleady see some Germans so we must have arrived…

      We find a hotel and settle in. I turn on the movie channel and by coincidence it’s a Tin Tan movie where he plays an Indian from Chiapas. In Mexico, the stereotypical Indian in the movies and TV comes from Chiapas or Oaxaca. As I fall asleep I wonder just what coincidence is all about…maybe it has something to do with irony and destiny?

      Right now I’m sitting on the fourth floor balcony of the Hotel Maya Chan in Palenque. I’ve slept my requisite five hours. The sun is coming up and the mist on the surrounding mountains is burning off. It’s cool and I’m glad to be back to a climate more similar to coastal California…we Californians are certainly spoiled. All the tour guide books and Internet sites pan Palenque as a dull place whose only redeeming feature are the ruins but what do they know…it’s an interesting place where tourism meets Maya Mexico. Tortilla shops are in between the souvenir shops and the mix is pleasant…there are plenty of Germans here but there is no beach so things won’t change as quickly as they have in Playa del Carmen.

I see lots of European backpackers and the only difference I can tell over the 35 years since I was one is that some actually carry two backpacks – a second one on their stomachs. What they can be filling two backpacks with is beyond me…maybe they brought the kitchen sink along too…or maybe it’s ballast for balance…ha!

      Across the plaza I can hear the mournful music of the first Mass of the day…Catholocism is so sad compared to the Evangelicals and such that sing and shout with joy…somehow the Catholic God is a much more serious type of guy…what with all the sacred blood and agony and such. But then again I’ve never really been able to get a handle on religion anyway so what do I know…

      The plaza below has come alive and I can see the barefoot Maya women stirring and getting ready to peddle their wares. It’s Sunday, Super Sunday at that, but we will be heading deeper into the mountains and missing the game. It’s also Mexican Constitution Day – a national holiday and they are having a flag raising ceremony right below us.

      The only Super Bowls I’ve missed were when I was traveling or in Mexico…such is life. All has it’s priority. The mournful church music also saddens me and I just hope it’s not a close game so I won’t miss much…ha!

      Silly gringos…and we think the Germans are a bit odd …ha!

Jack D. Deal


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July 28, 2007

Mexican Road Trip: Kukulcan and American Football

Can Cun is easy to get around…there is Avenida Lopez Portillo that leads out to the projects and out of town; Avenida Tulum which is a turista spot and Avenida Kulkulcan which is the Zona Hotelera or hotel strip. We follow Avenida Lopez Portillo out to the ferries that go to Isla Mujeres and drive on past the docks to the beach. It’s Sunday and the beach is packed…

      The sun is going down and there are families everywhere. There are number of beach restaurants with music blaring and people dancing. There are no Gringos or Germans. Everyone is Mexican and most of the men are carrying a plastic bag with beer…just as we saw in the morning. Several inebriated guys shout out at me and invite me to their table for beer…I remark to Angelica that I just have friends everywhere I go. She whacks me and we walk down the beach. We can see Isla Mujeres off the coast and the big hotels of the Zona Hotelera across the other side. Families are eating their roasted chicken and ordering fried fish from the restaurants. I still see no Gringos. It’s Sunday and most workers only get Sunday off, so they try to stretch it as far as they can. It’s almost dark when we leave and the fiesta still continues…I’m sorry I have to leave my amigos behind, ha!

      We drive back into town and out on Avenida Kulkulcan to the Zona Hotelera. What is amazing is the strip runs maybe 20 kilometers long and almost all the hotels are luxury ones…some under construction, some shut for hurricane repairs but all upper end. I keep wondering what is the attraction…the beaches are okay but nothing really special, especially after Hurricane Wilma. There is no gambling and Avenida Tulum is obviously a tourist trap…but somebody is staying here and paying lots of pesos to do so. Most of the California Chic I know look down on Can Cun much the same as they do Las Vegas; maybe the turistas are just all those snowbird New Yorkers and Chicagoans. And maybe the airport and reality are just too far from Valladolid for them…

      It’s after 9:00 and we want a pizza so we stop at a Pizza Hut. The pizza is hot and delicious as is anything after not having it for months…they have a dozen or so motorcycles for deliveries and I look at the local map on the wall. It’s filled with hundreds of fraccionamentos or blocks that form a massive grid. The delivery boys are constantly referring to the map for their deliveries. They have far more deliveries than in store sales…

      We drive back to the outskirts and the projects. We see young men on the street corners talking and gesturing to the passersby just as they do in projects back in the States. They are wearing imitation rap outfits and it looks out of place but all culture is relative and who am I to say?

      When we get back to the apartment Paco is still at work and Pancha is ready for bed. She puts up hammocks for us, turns on the overhead fan and wishes us good night. I have napped in a hammock but never slept an entire night. I fall asleep thinking this is just one more in a log string of new adventures…

      Later we buy some cochinita pibil, pork meat cooked in mild sauce, and have breakfast with tortillas and onion habanera salsa. Delicioso! Then it’s back to the Zona Hotelera by day.

      I look hard at the luxury hotels and all the construction; some of it new, other repairs from Hurricane Wilma. As opposed to New Orleans, the locals seem to be doing most of the clean up work. No one has complained here about there being no jobs and everyone we meet works, works, and works some more. Usually six days a week; ten hours a day. One of the huge spin-off industries is feeding all these workers; even the women don’t have time to cook. What I first took for poverty in Pancha’s refrigerator wasn’t poverty so much as not having the time to cook. And we noticed the families are smaller, usually only one or two kids. A number of folks here have told us how hard it is to make it economically and that is the number one reason, not so much I think, as those that don’t work and have nothing to do all day but make babies. Those that work also want better for their children. And just like in California, the wife has to work.

      I finally see my fill of tourists here in Can Cun. They seemed stressed and are not smiling. Maybe it’s the room rates…ha! Maybe the Americans flock here because of stress and all they want to do is lie on the beach, sleep and be tended to. So that may not be an accurate assessment of my fellow countrymen…but the contrast is stark. The post hurricane tourists are coming back and the Can Cun engine is cranking up again.

      As we drive along the main drag, Kulculkan, I notice there are no places to pull over or park. Most of the hotels have guarded gates. There are a few shopping center type spots with parking but there are no parks or rest areas. Everything is geared to keeping the dollar paying tourists in and everyone else out. Near the end of the zona, a good ten miles away, we find a spot where the public can go to the beach. No Americanos.  The families are Mexican and they are laughing and playing in the surf. The beach is nice but not spectacular and down the beach we can see the monster hotels a la Vegas. We stayed here many years back but it wasn’t as built up as it is now…

      We drive back out of the Zona Hotelera and past the dour faced tourists and back into town. I want to go back to the beach near the ferries going to Isla Mujeres; the Mexican beach. It’s Monday and the locals are back at work; those at the beach today are Mexican tourists.

      And once again the difference is striking. Entire families are on vacation; laughing playing, drinking beer and eating fried fish from the restaurants. A backside Can Cun holiday…I take some pictures and we go for a swim.

      It’s nighttime and we drive back to Pancha’s. Paco is still working and she says one of the waiters is sick and he is working double shifts. I don’t even want to try and calculate how many hours that is…

      It’s late but the kids are still out in the street playing and laughing and doing the things I did when I was a kid. They all have TV’s and probably video games but prefer each other’s company as the night brings lower temperatures. I am entertained watching them play.

      Pancha introduces us to her sister Elena and says we are going several blocks over to visit her sister’s house. Elena works as a hotel maid and her husband as a busboy at a restaurant at the airport. To our surprise Elena shows us how to lock the doors of her matchbox house and gives us the keys. We will be staying here tonight. Paco and Pancha felt embarrassed at us having to sleep in hammocks in their tiny living room; I protest but to no avail. This is my Mexico; folks we don’t even know are giving us the keys to their house.

      It’s warm and humid and we have the fan on full blast. Angelica is asleep in the hammock but I can’t sleep so I’m writing this. Some would say Can Cun is an obscenity and others would say it’s an economic development zone. Without Can Cun I’m sure there would be another several hundred thousand Mexicans crossing the border illegally. The purists would say that paying service labor 600 pesos a week while tourists pay $600 US a night is exploitation and maybe they are right. But folks like Paco and Pancha and Elena have work and would disagree; work, be it ever so humble, provides dignity and raises one out of poverty. One may be underemployed but at least one is employed…

      We have run out of land in My Mexico and it’s also time to get back. It’s barely light and the workers are beginning to scurry out of the projects and back to the tourist areas. I step outside and hear music several houses down; two men dressed as waiters are clutching beer cans and fast asleep in their car. The heat and the sun will wake them up…

      I’m already sweating and Angelica is up and it’s time to head back to Pancha’s for breakfast. Our road is calling and today it will be the Maya Riviera and more turista sights… I can’t wait to get back into the interior.

Jack D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: Can Cun and the Cocobango Club

We drive back out to the highway and I realize how hungry I am. I’m certain the Maya must have had big feasts after going into the cenotes. It’s late afternoon and we come into the town of Nuevo X Can and I see a number of tractor trailers parked along the side of the highway…a good sign.

      We pull into a restaurant called Las Tres Hermanas – the Three Sisters – another good sign. There are a dozen truckers eating and drinking coffee and all indicators point to a good meal…often the food is not so good where beer is the primary attraction; another pointer I’ve learned over my many years of road travels. One of the Hermanas comes and asks us if we are going to eat and we say yes. She says they have beef steaks or pork steaks; we order pork steaks. She brings me a soft drink and Angelica a cup of hot water with slices of lemon…the truckers are laughing, smoking and ordering more coffee. This is my kind of place.

      She brings us our plates with tortillas, a bowl of refried black beans and a saucer with slices of lemon and habanero chiles. They don’t each much salsa here on the peninsula…The food is superb.

      Good choice, says Angelica.

      So was the cenote, I reply. She smiles. Some days on the highway things just go right…I pay the bill and we are off to Can Cun.

      The sun is starting to set and we can see a brilliant rainbow…a fitting end to such a day. We drive on the Libre and through small towns with many unmarked topes or speedbumps…all a driver has to do is hit one of these things and they slow way down…

      It’s Saturday night and we can see several parties starting outside the huts…it must be a birthday or quince anos. I suggest we stop and Angelica said they would probably invite us in…and they probably would. But it is getting dark and we are still a ways from Can Cun…

      It’s dark when we get in…once again the black night turns into suburbs in a kilometer. There are all sorts of large warehouses and trucks and I am reminded that more than a half million people now live here and there are some estimates that put it up to 700,000; not the sleepy little village it was 30 years ago. I can see graffiti scribbled on the walls and building and am reminded we are in civilization once again. What a contrast from the Cenote.

      We drive into town and stop at the first hotel we find…it’s certainly not fancy but has a place to park the car off the street. At the front desk counter they sell chewing gum and candy and condoms and I think we have arrived at one of those hotels again; but I’m just too tired to drive around anymore. They don’t take credit cards so I have to go out on the street to an ATM. It is definitely a bit on the seedy side but not like the Tenderloin in San Francisco…I look at the street sign and it says Jose Lopez Portillo. Appropriate I remark to Angelica, Lopez Portillo being one of the more infamous Mexican presidentes in recent history. There are drunks and nightclubs and our hotel is right next to the Cocobango Club and we can hear live music blaring out. I don’t see any tourists…

      We stop for some ice at a convenience store and the door is locked with an open service window, just like the liquor stores in New York City. Can Cun was at the very bottom of my visit areas for this trip and this is why…

      We go back to the hotel room and can hear the Cocobango Club music. A couple is arguing in the hallway and he is trying to convince her to stay…several cars enter the parking lot as several leave. Life goes on despite the lover’s quarrels, condoms and locked convenience store doors. We fall asleep listening to the music and the hum of the overhead fan…it’s hot and so is the Saturday night.

      We sleep late and I am so lazy I don’t get out the laptop. Besides it’s Sunday and we spent most of Saturday in a sacred hole…we both need a day of rest. We finally get up and head back out onto the street and the daytime has transformed it all…it doesn’t look seedy at all. We look for some breakfast and decide on a spot that is filled with locals…we have been in Can Cun for almost twelve hours now and haven’t seen a single tourist yet. We sit down at a table with a family…Mexican style. It is common for restaurants in Mexico to seat different customers at the same table…

      Of course Angelica strikes up a conversation….she just can’t help herself. She asks what is good on the menu and the lady tells us…her husband offers his opinion and we order. The husband is a taxi driver and goes up and down the Maya Riviera and Angelica asks him where is a good spot to spend several days on the beach. He mentions a spot near Akumal. He says that Xcaret and Xel-ha now charge $50 U.S. entrance fee…and I cannot believe it. Those damn Germans. We have previously been to each spot and they were nice, but not great. He explained they have expanded them somewhat but they still are not great…he tells us how to get to his favorite spot. Angelica looks at me and I don’t say anything…after the Cenote No Name tip I better stay quiet.

      The family wishes us ‘buen provecho’ or good eating…a polite custom when one leaves the area where others are eating. The waiter brings our food and it is very good. Actually most of the food on our trip has been good to very good…with only several meals that have been not good. Eating out is a always a roulette wheel and we have done very well so far. I pay the bill and we walk back to the hotel room. It’s hot and humid and I notice everyone is wearing shorts and flip flops. Turista City… It’s Sunday and I notice many men are buying beer and putting it into large plastic bags. Later we would see why…

      We have several contacts in Can Cun and we get on the cell phone. My North American call plan works well here… The first is an old pilot friend that I haven’t seen for many years but he is out of town and his new wife is not very friendly so we say we’ll call back another time. The second is a cousin of Lencho’s, Paco, and he says, sure, come on out and we can stay with them. The house is small but they will find a place for us to sleep somewhere, he laughs. My kind of people.

      We drive to the outskirts of Can Cun into what is one massive housing projects area. I realize this is where the service workers live. We have only been here a short time but have noticed many ‘help wanted’ signs. Housing workers has to be a major problem here…these massive projects are an attempt to solve the problem.

      We get lost and call him again on the cell. He says to stay put and he will come get us…it’s hot and I buy some beer at an Oxxo convenience store. He meets us there and greets us warmly and warns us the house is very small. That’s okay, I say we can even pitch our tent tonight. There is no ground, he laughs, but we have some extra hammocks.

      We drive to his apartment and would have had a lot of trouble had he not come to get us. He introduces us to his wife Pancha. I could not believe how small his apartment was…my guess was around 225 square feet. There were no beds and I could see the hammock hooks on the walls…there was literally no place for beds. I offer him a beer and he declines saying he has to go to work soon. I ask if it’s okay to put the beer in the fridge and he says it’s okay; the fridge is almost empty.

      We work all the time, he says, like most of our neighbors do. Pancha has no time to cook so we almost always buy prepared food…she works 60 hours a week at a day care center. She makes 1400 pesos every two weeks, he offered, plus she has to pay the bus each way to work and back. I work right in the tourist area. I made really good money before the hurricane and we are actually buying this place, but now we are struggling. Until the tourists come back, we will continue to struggle.

      Paco excuses himself and leaves. I ask Pancha where is a good place to get food and she says at a stand near the project’s entrance. I go and buy a kilo of pork ribs and a chicken…included are rice and beans, salsa and tortillas. I take it back to their place and we eat…the chicken and ribs are delicious.

      Pancha is tired and takes a nap. Angelica and I go for a drive back into town…we are on the Backside of Can Cun…the place where no tourists go. That’s fine with me…I don’t really care to speak with any New Yorkers or Germans yet.  Little did I know...

Jack D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: Gringos and Coronas

The waiter at breakfast, a young man about 30, looked very Mayan but spoke very good Spanish. Angelica asked if he were Maya.

      Si, Senora, he said nodding his head.

      But your Spanish is very good, she replied.

      I had a boss that told me I had to improve my Spanish if I wanted to work in his restaurant, he said, so I had to improve my Spanish. I was lucky he told me to do it or otherwise I might not have a job…and I like being a waiter.

      Well, your Spanish is very good…are you from Valladolid?

      No, senora, I come from a rancho about 70 kilometers from here. I first went to Cancun and didn’t like it…it’s too much pressure and too hectic. I never got used to the traffic and tourists…I’ve noticed a lot of people moving her from Cancun…they like it here. They say it’s much more tranquil…you should move here too…there is plenty of land around here and the people are nicer here…like me, he laughs.

      I like it here and my husband does too…we were here some years back, she continued, he says it reminds of him of the smaller cities in Spain. We took a walk in the Zocalo last night and he kept saying Valladolid is a city in Spain.

      The waiter laughed and politely excused himself. I’m sure there have to be rude Maya somewhere but I haven’t met one yet…the waiter returned bringing us our coffee.

      I would like to see a cenote, she said, maybe one that isn’t full of tourists. The Cenote Zaci is nice but my husband has this thing about not wanting to be around Germans and Americans, she said with a smile.

      Perdone, senora, is he not American? he asked very politely.

      He keeps telling people he’s from a town called Zacamixtle, she said with a chuckle, they must think he works a little too hard.

      I don’t know why she has to interrupt folks that are trying to do their job. She must think it is part of their job to be asked a barrage of questions…all I want in the early morning is my coffee.

      Perdone, senora, I know a very nice cenote – where are you going?

      Cancun.

      We Maya call it Can Cun – two words, he said laughing.

      I shake my head. Now we’re going to have an early morning history and cultural lesson…

      There is a nice cenote out of Chelmax…I have been there once. It is on a side road going to Can Cun.

      Don’t even ask, I say standing up, I will get our atlas from the car.

      I return and they are still talking. Soon the other customers will get start getting angry and he will lose his job. I put the atlas down and she picks it up. He soon returns.   

I would like to learn English but the words confuse me, he says putting down my longaniza and eggs. I started to say something but she kicks me.

      We get more and more Americans now and soon I am sure we will start getting some from Zacamixtle, he laughs. She thinks it’s funny too. I think our waiter is playing a serious game with his tip…

      We finish our meal and I notice she leaves an extra ten pesos for the tip. Not only did he learn Spanish but also how to sucker turistas.

      I don’t say anything but she circles a town on the map and we return to the car.

      Onward, James, she says. The early morning sarcasm of our waiter must be contagious. The day is gorgeous and the sky a dark blue. The white Yucatan clouds are forming their customary patterns – it must be because the Yucatan is so flat – the highest points have to be the Indian pyramids. Everything is green and I think life must not be too bad in the outlying suburbs of Valladolid.

      A half hour later she sees the cut off to Belmax.

      You have to be kidding, I laugh, the road was paved but filled with potholes. After five minutes it turned to dirt which was a relief. Fifteen minutes later at a fork in the road she asks me to stop and a campesino points to the left. Another five minutes we arrive at a sign that says Cenote…half of it is broken off so she calls it the Cenote No Name. Somehow I have a feeling the day is one that will be filled with overwhelming cynical humor…little did I know. She sees a young boy and asks him if he can take us to the cenote. He answers in Spanish and I am thankful for the Mexican public school system.

      Do you speak Maya and English? she asks.

      Maya yes but only a few words of English, he laughs, mis Gringos don’t come too often here and I don’t have a good chance…when I get bigger I will go to Cancun.

      We park the car off to the side of the road and take a path down through some thick underbrush. At least the Germans haven’t been here yet, I think. We come upon a hole in the ground, maybe 10 meters across. I’m wondering how we are going to go down and the boy points to some rocks that taper down to a path. I stand there for a minute looking at the scene. The brush around is not very special…at least to the untrained eye. But I can look down into the cavernous hole and see beautiful dark blue water surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites. Once again I’m reminded the entire Yucatan peninsula is one big cenote.

      We climb down the rocks and onto the path. It is like we are in some sort of cathedral with the sun shining through stained glass. I can see the path leads down to a sort of beach and the boy says he has to go back. He laughs and said don’t drown as there have been tourists in this area of cenotes that have drowned. The Maya aren’t so stupid…I ask him how deep it is and he replies 20 meters…I ask him if there is current at the bottom and he says yes, but not much. Yeah, right. If all of Yucatan is a cenote than all of Yucatan is sitting on top of an underground river. The boy is gone and the only sound we hear is the water dripping down from the top…slow, steady drips. I see some footprints in the mud but other than that, there are no signs of human life. The locals must not come down here very often…my guess is they must be very sensible folks.

      We take off our shoes and put our feet in the water; it’s cool but not cold. Small, black fish come to near our feet and we can see them clearly – the water is very clear. Even though it is clear, I cannot see the bottom in the middle. Nor can I detect any signs of currents…but the fish are an obvious clue that the water is running somewhere. Angelica says its time for a swim and I take off my hat…it’s wet with sweat. I guess if we are both going to be swept away we may as well be swept away together. I keep wondering where all the Germans are…

      We strip to our underwear and carefully walk out from the shore. Natural terraces or ledges let us gradually get into deeper water. I can see several more terraces below me but the water is over my head…I’m a decent swimmer but Angelica is not so we stay where we are. I dip my head underwater and wonder how many ancient Maya have done the same before me…this is a real sacred immersion!

      We look up at the top and cannot believe how beautiful it is…the bright sunlight filters through the green outside trees giving it a dazzling stained glass look – the sun’s rays coming straight down into the azure water. We look around the walls and see all sorts of stalactites and stalagmites and large limestone formations…it’s as though someone filled Carlsbad Caverns with water and we are taking a bath. In fifty years there will be a hotel outside and Germans will bring their buckets of Coronas and go skinny dipping…the Coronas will be part of a package tour. But for now, we are the only ones in this amazing spot.

      We splash and float in the water and the fish nibble at our legs and arms…maybe they are licking the salt off us or maybe feeding on some kind of small bugs we bring from civilization. The only sound is our breathing and the steady dripping of the water that has obviously been doing the same for tens of thousands of years to form this wonder of nature.

      We stay in the water for several hours and finally get out on the beach area and dry off…the water has cleaned us better than any soap and hot water shower could do. Finally and reluctantly we put on our clothes and start the walk back up, stopping every ten feet to glance back and admire the view. It has to be one of the most beautiful natural sites I have ever seen and I have seen many…

      We stop at the entrance and look down into the hole.

      Guess I shouldn’t talk so much to the staff, she said sarcastically.

      We’ll let it go this time, I said smiling at her. Sometimes I have to admit she is more than all right…

Jack  D. Deal

      


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Mexico Road Trip: Fetuses and Tequila

I tell Tio the bad news about his lost nephew. All the numbers were disconnected. I could do an Internet search but most likely the search would turn up hundreds of names and it would be a needle in a haystack situation.

      Tio takes out a bottle of Anis and puts two shot glasses on the table.

      I wasn’t expecting you would find out anything, sobrino, but thank you for trying. And it’s time we had a man to man talk before you go, he says seriously. He fills the glasses and hands me one.

      To your successful journey, he says.

      To my successful journey, I reply, and click my glass with his.

      We should all work harder, he continues, I regret not working harder when I was younger. I’m too old now, he laughs, and besides I’m Mexican. We can work hard but our government takes it all. It’s all for them and the people pay. Look at those Pemex workers with houses in Switzerland…how did they get that money? And look at Fox…he turned out to be like the rest. The government gets in the way…many of us work from gallo to grillo…from the rooster crowing in the morning until the crickets come out at night.

      Our government allows those super rich to get richer…the politicos go to visit them and they do them favors, he continues. Look at Camarena and the color TV patent…he tried to get a patent in Mexico but all the government did was want more mordidas…so he took his patent to the U.S. The superrich just get richer…look at Telmex.

      But isn’t that what you aspire to Tio? I ask.

      I want to see my country progress and get out of the mess the politicos have taken us to. I want to see us work harder and for our young people to have opportunity…but look what happens…we invest in their educations and they go to the United States. Isn’t that a great loss for Mexico? And what happens when the government and the corrupt bleed the small businessman of his profits? Corruption and the government take their chunk and those of us that produce and do the work have to be content with what is left…do you see what I mean?

      I nod my head in agreement.

      We lack culture and a work ethic, especially here in Campeche, he continues, look at the economic boom happening in Cd. Carmen. Why isn’t it happening here? The other day I went to a parts house to find an air conditioning part…the employee said maybe they had it and maybe they didn’t but he didn’t have time to look. He told me to come back the next day. I had to go to Merida on business and I stop in a parts house there. The employee said they didn’t have it but he gets on the phone and finds it. He asks me to have a seat, offers me a cup of coffee and ten minutes later the part arrives. Why can’t it be that way everywhere?

      But it’s that way in Carmen and Merida, I reply.

      Yes, but that is also rare. It never happens here in Campeche…maybe we are too Mexican, he laughs. Our system keeps us down…and our government keeps the super rich taking it all. And no, I don’t want to be super rich, I detest them. Let me tell you a little story…

      There were three compadres drinking on a Sunday afternoon and they started talking about what they would do if they were super rich. The first said he would buy a mansion and a dozen new cars. The second said he would buy a beautiful new wife and travel around the world and stay in the fanciest hotels. The third said he wanted to eat well, sleep well and go to the bathroom well. The others were confused and asked him why…

      First, the rich don’t eat well because they eat pre-packaged foods that are frozen or out of cans. Secondly, the rich don’t sleep well because they are constantly worried someone is stealing their money. And thirdly, the rich don’t go to the bathroom well because they don’t eat or sleep well and they have health problems. And how can one enjoy all that money if they have health problems?

      I laugh. Tio is a funny guy…

      We Mexicans aren’t very smart, he continues, we think someone’s worth is determined by what they have. I have this young employee that works very hard and he is my best technician. One day his mother and father come to visit him in the shop – they are Maya and don’t speak Spanish very well. He doesn’t introduce them to me and I ask him why and he says he embarrassed…

      Embarrassed about your own parents? I ask him, they put you through school and fed you and gave you love and helped you get to where you are today…

      Yes, he replied, that is true…but people look down on them and I don’t want people to look down on me.

      Go figure, sobrino, said Tio, we are losing our values with this modern world of ours…Parents like my employee are not teaching their kids Maya and the day will come when no one speaks Maya. Maybe one day we will all speak English, he laughs.

      Many of the small business owners I know say business is good and then it goes bad…that’s not progress. But we are the problem too…not just the government. I get young men that come in every week and want me to pay them to learn the air conditioning trade…imagine that? I tell them you need to pay me for teaching you, he laughs. So between our government and this modern world where one wants things for free and even get paid for it, no wonder we are not progressing…when we aren’t going backward, we are going in circles, no?

      I’ve got more questions than answers, I laugh, I see less in black and white and more in gray.

      Tio pours us another shot of anis and we click our glasses.

      Tio of course is right even though his views are simplistic. But there has to be a way to break this vicious cycle…

      How did you learn all this, Tio? I ask.

      It was hard on me, he says wistfully, when I was 15 my older brother took me off the ranch to live in a whorehouse. The owner was a Pemex director and there were maybe 40 or 50 women there. At first I thought it was great since I could have almost any woman I wanted…but then it was not so much fun. I would take the aborted fetuses and put them in a bucket and dump them in the river…does that bother you, sobrino?

      Not much bothers me anymore, I answer.

      I would see fathers bring their young daughters and sell them to my brother, he continued, and he would set them up in a room. I never forgot how sad that was…or how sad it was to see the children they had suffer. I saw it all or at least all I could stomach, he continued, maybe that is why I am the way I am…eventually I saw things I didn’t want to see anymore.

      Every now and then there would be gunfight and I saw men killed right in front of my eyes…I used to dive under the table whenever I saw a gun, he laughed, and to this day even a policeman’s or security guard’s gun make me want to get down. One night I saw a man get shot in the head and the blood just drained out of him and made a pool on the floor. He ordered more tequila and put the bottle to his mouth and drank big gulps maybe going through half the bottle before he fell backwards dead. I left the next day and never went back. I worked every minute of the day so I would not have to live like an animal…when I think about it my stomach turns.

      So you see sobrino, I have no sympathy for the weak and pathetic. There are no excuses for failure and success needs no explanation. That’s me and who I am…and I make no apologies. There are those that don’t like me but I don’t care. It doesn’t matter to me what they think…I’ve had a hard life and managed to get out…today, we Mexicans are too weak and want it all without earning it…don’t you think that is the case? he asks.

      If you say so, Tio, I nod, if you say so…

Jack D. Deal


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July 27, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Health Care and Socialism

It might surprise you to know that diabetes is our number cause of hospital visits, says Lazaro, so you are right about it being a worry.

      Amazing, I remark, I never would have guessed that. I would have thought hypertension or something like that…

      Diabetes is a killer, maimer and drain on our system, he adds, and we also have a high incidence of blindness.

      Is is hereditary? I ask, the Latinos in the U.S. have a higher rate.

      Certainly, he replies, but it’s also diet and appears also closely related to physical activity. The combination of factors creates such a deadly etiology that it often seems we are fighting a hopeless battle. That and the mental part – the fear…

      What do you mean?

      Many of our patients perceive it to be like cancer or a tumor…something terminal. They take it very hard and often come in when the symptoms are severe…and of course then once it’s onset there is no real cure…only treatments. We don’t do the implants like they do in the States…but I don’t think implants are very common there either.

      Since medicine is subsidized here, I reply, you would think the government would be all over the prevention angle.

      Ah, government’s are run by politicians and managers and numbers and budgets are what matter…I think it is similar in the U.S. But it’s also us…we are our own enemy here. We like our soft drinks and sweet bread and coffee while we live in a paradise of fruits and vegetables and fish. I have noticed there is a much lower incidence rate in the extreme rural areas where they have a better diet. So even if we know the cause and effect; we often won’t do anything about it…so we get a steady stream of blindness and foot amputations…I read the medical journals and the same happens in the U.S.

      There’s that cause and effect again, I reply.

      What’s that? he asks.

      Oh nothing, just a little concept that has been bothering me for the last few months.

      You haven’t changed that much, amigo, ideas always used to put a furrow in your brow, he laughs, and it looks like they still do.

      But the medical system has always worked pretty well here, no? I ask.

      For what we have to work with, the answer is yes…of course there are those with means that always get better care, just like in your country. Those that can afford the best specialists get better treatment…

      I’ve never really understood the hospital system here, I reply, I’ve never had much need…

      That’s because you have that guardian angel always looking down and protecting you, said Lazaro, I remember even sometimes when there were fights in the cantinas…the bottles always missed your head and hit somebody else, he laughs, but getting back to medicine, the poor here in Mexico actually have better care access than many poor in the U.S. do…it’s because you are all a bunch of capitalist pigs, he laughs, just look at you, Mr. Entrepreneur – I bet you drive some European sports car, no?

      Actually not, I laugh, it’s a Honda that has taken a beating on this trip…sort of like me…and like me it doesn’t leak, at least very much.  Yet. 

      Lazaro pulls out a napkin and takes out his pen, just like in the old days.

      For those under social security here, we have the IMSS, he says, and by and large this is better care and based on whether an employer participates in the social security plan…

      For those that don’t, there is the SSA, it has a slightly lower level of care and the patient has to pay for hospitalization, which can be expensive. But you have to remember here a surgery might cost 3,000 pesos and not $30,000 dollars. Then there is the ISSTE for government employees and of course the PEMEX hospitals for oil workers.

      The cost of medicines has gone way up as the subsidies have been reduced…many patients that had access to the IMSS didn’t use it and instead used private practicioners, but since the cost of medicines has gone up, they are now going to IMSS. There is also a Seguro Popular, sort of like your Medicaid, that helps defray costs for the most indigent…but it is controversial and sometimes they won’t release a patient until the bill is paid…much like privatized medicine. There are holes in any subsidized system and as you must know medicine is usually a matter of how to pay for it…even though the government still subsidizes medicine. But it is still socialized medicine even though there are more copayments…and we doctors still subsidize it too…

      What do you mean? I ask.

      A new doctor has a very hard time finding a job, especially in urban areas…there are jobs in the rural areas but who wants to work there? Ride a horse from village to village, he laughs, I did it for two years and many doctors do…but as soon as we can we move back to the city. That’s why many doctors move to the U.S….

      But it’s tough to get a license, no? I ask.

      Sure, but many don’t work in medicine…they work in construction or something else…anything is better than starving as a doctor here. All that time and money wasted when they cross that river, no amigo? He looks at his watch, asks for the bill and stands up…

      I’m already late for a department meeting, he says shaking his head, I wish we could talk. He pulls out a business card and jots down some numbers…Here’s my cell and e-mail. Let’s stay in touch…

      Who’s the big shot now, I laugh, remember when I used to call you Che Junior?

      Sure, he laughs, I remember drinking tequila and smoking those horrible Cuban cigars at your wife’s rancho…say, that reminds me, I didn’t tell you. I’ve gone to Cuba maybe a half dozen times and have been involved in some medical research there…you ought to go…you would find it fascinating.

      Me? I’m not a leftist anymore, I laugh.

      No seriously, amigo, you should go. Take a look for yourself…the people and system are interesting even if you don’t agree with it…I saw some Gringos there…call me on my cell and we’ll talk about it.

      The bill comes and he plops down a 200 peso note. We shake hands and look each other in the eye and then he turns and leaves. He opens the door to a taxi and turns back to me…

      Viva Che! he shouts laughing. And then he is gone.

Jack D. Deal


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Zacahuil: One Really Big, Big Tamale

It’s time to make a goodbye zacahuil and it is quite a project. First, we took a large bucket of nixtamal or corn that had been soaked in lime for about a week. We took this to the molino or corn grinding store to be ground. It made about eight kilos of masa or corn dough.

      The clay oven was fired to a really hot temperature and the wood allowed to burn down. Then more wood was added until a bed of coals about an inch thick covered the bottom of the oven…this took about three hours.

      While we waited, we cooked six kilos of pork meat and bones in a large pot and set it aside to cool. Later the meat and bones were taken out and the broth was left. Then we toasted a kilo of dried ‘chile seco’ afterwards adding some of the broth to make a chile paste. The paste was then added to the meat and bones to make a thick soupy goo…to the paste was added ground garlic, salt and onions.

      Several dozen long banana leaves were laid out on a table and a long piece of plastic laid over that. Then another layer of banana leaves. This made a bed for the masa that was two meters or six feet long.

      The broth was added to the masa dough until it was liquid. Some like their zacahuil soupy or runny; I tend to like it firm. Next the meat and chile goo was added and thoroughly mixed with the masa. It looked like some sort of paint mix with swirls; the masa mixed until it was all one color. More banana leaves were added until all the masa was covered. Strips of henequen and wire were used to tie the whole big tamale up…great care was taken to make sure none of the masa was exposed or would run out.

      In a bucket near the oven some light brown clay was mixed with water to form a runny type of clay paste. The fire was ready and we were ready to put it in.

      The large tamale was placed on a metal strip about six feet long. Then the sacahuil tamale was placed in the oven. Very quickly metal strips were placed over both the oven door and the air vent; this has to be done very quickly or the sacahuil will burn. Once the door and vent were sealed, it was time to take a break. The oven was hot and the clay mud steamed until it dried, but no air got in or out.

      And there the sacahuil stayed for 16 hours. It steams and bakes and does not burn, if one seals the oven quickly enough. It would have been possible to add several more of these giant tamales to the oven and that is exactly what the commercial vendors do; firewood or lena is expensive so they make as much as they can get in their ovens.

      We then took a drive to Poza Rica to get Angelica’s voter credential like we were told to do. It took almost three hours waiting in line and to her disappointment the credential was not ready as promised. Some things have not changed in Mexico… The employees were gruff and checked on their computers but did not know if the credential had been sent or when it would arrive. There was nothing Angelica could do except come back another day or week or month and wait in line again. When she explained she had to go back to the U.S. they said too bad because she had to return back to Poza Rica to get and could not get it any other place including the Mexican Consulate in San Jose, California.

      Later we spoke with others that said they had to wait up to six months to get their credential. We certainly didn’t have six months to wait and poor Angelica was very disappointed…it did not make sense. If democracy depends on citizen participation, why does it take six months to get a voter registration card? Something certainly did not seem right and I had my suspicions but I kept them to myself…no need to make poor Angelica more frustrated then she already was.

      Later on I kept thinking about it and how the parties are split across socioeconomic lines and was wondering if some really sharp political advisors could figure out a way to make it so frustrating that certain groups would simply get too frustrated and not vote. I would like to think that were not the case but it certainly seemed that way…if not, why would it take six months to get a simple voter card?

      In this case, the government of change did not complete its promise. The government of change must know that six months is not acceptable for a free people…Mexico is not Cuba. The transparency that has been promised is not fully transparent, though it tries to give that impression. Such is progress. One can only hope the problem gets fixed so that the process is less complicated and more open…progress sometimes goes sideways.

      Not only that, the lines were so long because the last date to register was approaching, a full six months away from the election. I’m not sure if this has always been the case or was it just for this election…it doesn’t matter. Millions of Mexicans won’t vote because they got frustrated or didn’t register in time. Such is politics and the slow march toward democracy. One can complain but one has no recourse…

      We stop at the market in a small town called Tihuatlan and I’m surprised at how many young men are chatting idly on the streets. It’s the first of the year so maybe they are still on vacation. Or maybe they are waiting until March when construction and agricultural jobs pick up in Texas, California and Alabama.

      I ask one young man about the local job situation and he laughs. My father sold tacos at the bus station and that was my family’s only income, he says, is that what you would call a job? If so, yes, there are jobs. I can’t do that and won’t do that and I’ll do whatever it takes to get back to Louisiana for the farm season, he smiles. I believe him…I’m not sure a career selling tacos at the bus station holds much promise for anyone…

      We drove back to the farm and could smell the sacahuil and wanted some right then, but had to wait until the next day – a metaphor for voting, ha! Hurry up and be patient…sacahuil like democracy takes its own sweet time…

      It’s not that tainted politics doesn’t play a role in the U.S….we see some sort of complaints in every national election…polls closing early, bad ballots or something like that. It’s human nature and a fact of life and the reason politics often keeps back the march of human progress…hopefully in the coming decades politics will start to catch up to social evolution. It’s certainly not a fast process or an easy one.   

      If not, politics and governments will become even more alienated from the citizens they supposedly serve…

Jack D. Deal


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July 26, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Mexican Movie Stars

Ah Vera Cruz! It’s great to be back! I have some very fond memories of Vera Cruz over the years and it is one of my very favorite cities in all of Mexico… It was near Vera Cruz where Cortez first landed and it has a bloody war history with periods of malaria and disease when there was little fighting. It seems like all foreign invaders came through here once or twice as well as pirates of all types…maybe this history has a lot to do with its current character…

      The big annual event of course is the famous Carnaval or Mardi Gras held each year…you have to check your calendar for the dates as it involves the moon and Lent and so many weeks after this or that…just look it up. It’s sometime in February or March and runs for a week and a half. It is Mexico’s biggest fiesta and one of massive proportions…avoid the parades as they are second rate, held in the heat of the day and are mainly for the locals – unless one of your relatives is in one, ha! The real party begins at night and what a fun time it is! And a great place to practice your Spanish as well…

      The streets are packed and there are bands playing all kinds of music. The music used to be free but as with most things, Carnaval has become commercialized. The traditional music is called Jarocho and is danced by men and women wearing white outfits…but that is becoming less common now and is usually relegated to the folklore nightclub shows. What you want to do is get near to a tropical band that plays cumbias – that’s where the real party and dancing goes on. We Mexicans just love cumbias!

      Of course there are all kinds of food and drink to be had and sometimes, like in New Orleans, the revelers drink a little too much. But that’s to be expected and part of some strange thing having to do with sins and penitence and getting your fun in while you can…but unless you are Catholic that doesn’t matter anyway…so just dance away and have a good time. You might not want to get too soused and as usual, be courteous and behave yourself. There are cops everywhere and no one likes those that are too unruly – especially those Ugly Americans! Ha! And Mexicans really don’t appreciate those that interfere with others having fun…

      Also watch out for the old confetti in the face trick. One of the big thrills is to walk up and down the street and throw confetti in the face of non- suspecting passers-by…sort of like the snowball fights up north. Keep your mouth closed and if you wear glasses definitely put them on! You might even buy some confetti and try it yourself, ha! But don’t get angry if you get a mouthful…

      One of the things best things about Vera Cruz is its cosmopolitan nature…visitors from all over the world come as well as from all over Mexico. I stayed up many a night on the zocalo portales or covered cafes ringing the town square and drank café con leche or café lechero with the international intellectual crowd. A true bohemian in a truly bohemian place! What animated conversations! You can practice your Spanish, French, German, Italian and anything else you like…what fun! Or discuss art, politics or the failed Zapatista rebellion. Or just watch the people…a favorite pastime of mine.

      See if you can guess where the people come from; I usually have no trouble with the French, Germans and Americans. I’ve gotten pretty good at picking out the Chilangos or Mexico City folks…if your Spanish is good enough it’s easy to detect their sing-song rhythmical speech patterns. It’s a great place to get back into mainstream culture if you’ve been out in the rancherias for several months…the contrasts are striking. A lot of small town Mexico remains somewhat conservative but Vera Cruz is as liberal as Mexico gets – with the possible exception of Cancun.

      There are blacks and out of the closet gays…two rarities in small town and rural Mexico. And whatever your sexual preference you can ogle until your heart is content or until your wife whacks you one…ha. Vera Cruz is a very open and liberal city and except for it being truly tropical, reminds me of San Francisco, California. Though not much chilly fog here, ha!

      And as cities go, it has to be one of the most ‘bearable’, even for me that doesn’t care much for urban areas no matter where they are. Ask for directions or information and the locals will go out of their way to help you. I had numerous offers of help operating my cell phone in a local café…It’s that tropical climate, great seafood and of course the cumbias…what else could anyone want?

      On the second night Licho didn’t get back until after midnight so Angelica and I stayed up late watching a Tin Tan movie. It was a little silly but I liked it…and would recommend the Mexican Golden Age movies to those learning Spanish. Mexico had its Golden Age just like Hollywood and the films were considered to be higher quality…something analogous to the opinion of many in the U.S.

      There are all types of movies from that black and white era; drama, humor and tragedy. I like the humorous ones but sometimes, like Tin Tan, they are silly…but a great way to learn more Spanish and get your ear adapted. Also, with a narrative you can usually follow the story line without understanding 100% and that helps your positive reinforcement and your Spanish language self image.

      Many of the Golden Age movies were charro or Mexican cowboy movies with Pedro Infante and Jorge Negrete. Sara Garcia played matronly roles and was in what must have been hundreds of movies. Maria Felix and Elsa Aguirre were in the forties and fifties and very popular starlets. And be sure to take a hard look at the scenery; both urban and rural. I was fortunate enough to catch some of the really older Mexico on my first visit and I like looking at the way things were in the very ‘old’ days…

      But like Hollywood the Golden Era passed and there was a time in the 1980’s when Mexican movie production nearly stopped. Imports and a desire for the new and modern made the old plots seem obsolete; violence, sex and modern angst became the market. If you like violent movies with lots of blood, you’ll find many movies with an actor named Mario Almada. He made hundreds of super violent shows and has become synonymous with shoot ‘em ups…But be wary…the blood runs in the streets! Ha! In between the shooting and killing he struggles with some form of modern angst and something or other he has lost…but then in violent movies, the plot is secondary.

      In the States, most DVD and video rental stores have Spanish titles and also I’ve seen them on the pay per view services. There are of course some stores that only have Spanish titles and cater to Mexican clientele. I would avoid the dubbed movies but that is up to you…Spanish is Spanish and the more you are exposed, the better. Certain regular and cable Spanish networks, such as Tele Azteca, Galavision, Univision, Televisa and Telemundo, have regularly scheduled movies and you can get the schedule and see what they have. But my preference is the older black and white movies: little violence, obscenity and understandable plots. And sometimes scripts that rival any ever produced in Hollywood.

      We are awakened at 4:00 A.M. by a clanging and banging down the street …lucky us! Today is tianguis or market day in Colonia Lomas and all we have to do is walk out to the end of the street. Our car is blocked in so we aren’t going to do much driving around anyway. In the larger cities of Mexico different colonias have tianguis on different days of the week. If your Spanish is good enough, you can ask the locals where the markets are being held throughout the week and even go to a different one every day. The Mexicans frequent these markets and many buy their food staples and household goods there. I like going out by myself and seeing the looks on the vendors faces when I ask ‘a como el medio de chicharon?’ Ha…

      The markets are much more fun than the department stores but then if you’re a Saks or Neiman Marcus regular you might not be interested in the tianguis anyway. Listen to the vendors hawk their wares and listen to the gossip and bargaining and learn the names of foods and other items. Don’t worry – no one will be blasting out their deepest secrets in public, ha! It’s a great way to listen and practice speaking Spanish at the same time…you may as well take advantage!

      I did and still do…and the food is great, too…by the way, a half kilo of chicharones or fried pork parts runs about 25-30 pesos…

Jack D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: Great Food and Great Conversation

It’s late and we’re hungry…we go to a restaurant called El Farolito or Lighthouse near the Malecon or waterside boulevard. We order atole de coco to drink…a hot liquid drink made of corn masa and blended coconut. We also order empanadas de queso or fried cheese turnovers; panucho or a type of tostada or fried tortilla with beans and seasonings; and sopa azteca – a soup with tortilla chips, avocado, cheese, cream and epasote – a seasoning herb. Delicious!

      We continue our conversations about anything and everything – a free-for-all discussion. My Spanish is now at the point where if I can think it in English, I can say it in Spanish…without translating. I have reached the point that all non-native language learners want to reach. I can express myself almost as well in Spanish as English and in some cases, such as feelings and emotions, better in Spanish.

      Even in legal, technical and scientific terms that come from the same word roots…for example the word innovation. If I know a legal or technical word in English, which I should – ha, I can convert it into Spanish with 80% plus accuracy. There are of course some words that don’t fit this pattern but it is surprising how many do…

      I can tell that Licho is enjoying our conversations as well…I’m sure you have at some point spoken with someone that is bored with what you are saying. This can especially be true if you are struggling with a language and trying to translate in your head. The feedback you give shapes and reinforces the short term behavior of the person you are talking with. If it gets too hard for them, they lose interest. Conversation is a two way street and if it does not flow; there is little interchange. With someone that is highly educated and polite like Licho, they will endure until they can find a polite way to back out of the conversation. It’s just not fun for them and they can’t express the way they think and feel because the conversational partner is unable to comprehend and reply easily….

      Maybe this is why languages such as Spanish, are often taught in either written or verbal/conversational formats. In my opinion, I don’t think languages are actually constructed that way and that is not the way they are learned. A word is a word whether it is written or spoken and the serious learner simply has to learn both.

      It’s getting late and we are both tired and we have stayed up late three nights in a row. I have to hit the road and he has to get some sleep and go to work.

      We’re up at dawn and pack the car. He’s just leaving for work and I thank him profusely for all he has done…'al contrario’ he replies, it’s not often I get to have such interesting conversations. Me either.

      We agree to stay in touch and off I go.

      We pass through the southern part of the city and Boca del Rio. Once again I am surprised how quickly the urban changes to the rural…

      We stop for gas in Alvarado and hear the famous accent of the locals. It’s even a bit tough for me to understand though like any accent one can acquire it with time…ha! And Alvardo is famous for its foul language and I can hear a lot of that too! We decide to take a side trip to Roca Quebrada on the coast. The scenery is spectacular…lush jungle vegetation and clear streams running out from the mountain. What is unusual about this area is the mountains run right down to the coast, something that is usually seen only on the west coast.

      We stop for bread and snacks and the people are friendly and look at us as though we are tourists! They are a bit shy and speak in a slower and more deliberate mode. We stop for some fish in Roca Quebrada and are amazed at how beautiful it is. A young man takes us to a restaurant and even refuses a tip; what are you tipping me for he asks? Someone recently made a movie in Roca Quebrada with Sonia Bragga, a Brazilian actress I haven’t seen on TV or movies for years. She was very popular in the ‘80’s and I’m sure looks older…but don’t we all…

      This area is trying to promote what is called eco-tourism – a combination of environment and tourist access. Many tourists don’t want to see littered beaches or strip cut mountains…it’s a delicate balance …but it’s a great idea and the area will soon be filled with Germans when they hear about it. I’m just not sure how the locals will take to nude sunbathing but it seems to have worked out okay on the Yucatan, ha!

      We head back to the highway and drive through the Tuxtlas, Santiago Tuxtla and San Andres Tuxtla. These are busy small cities and great places for those wanting to immerse themselves in a Spanish speaking environment. The countryside becomes distinctly tropical and as we approach Catemaco, more touristed – I guess that’s the word for it.

      We drive into Catemaco and several young men on motor scooters drive up beside me and want to take me to cheap hotels, restaurants and guided tours. I shake my head and tell them I want to see the dancing girls and Angelica whacks me…but they agree anyway and are willing to go until they realize it’s only a crazy joking Gringo…they somehow figured out rather quickly that Angelica was not my sister, ha!

      We find a quiet hotel near the malecon and take a walk. It is beautiful and a full moon is on the rise. There are lots of crows in the trees yakking away and I remark all the brujos or witchdoctors must be out tonight…the birds are everywhere as are their droppings. Angelica does not appreciate my humor in calling it Caca- maco…caca being the slang word for popo or poop.

      The hawkers are out everywhere wanting to sell us anything or take us anywhere and Angelica will not let me get into a conversation about dancing girls even for fun…sometimes wives are that way I guess…We walk to the zocalo or city square and into the very large, ornate Cathedral with a green neon cross on top. One has to know that the green neon cross has to be a sign the area is special for something…

      We find some back streets and take a walk…there is an obvious civic pride here as the houses are well kept even though somewhat poor…we walk back along the malecon and the full moon has risen across the water. It is beautiful and I can see why the brujos have their annual convention not far from here…it certainly is a lovely setting.

      It’s early morning and I’m sitting at the ADO bus station working on this – the first customer of the day. I saw the bus drivers eating here last night…it’s an old traveler’s trick to eat where the bus and truck drivers eat. The tropical birds are chirping away and the mist is beginning to rise off the lake. The busses come in one by one and the restaurant is filling up. I drink my fill of coffee and order huevos a la mexicana or scrambled eggs with onions and tomatos…very tasty! I can’t believe this is the same state as Tierra Blanca and Poza Rica and Vera Cruz. Veracruz State is like California in that it is so big and it contains so much. Maybe that is why both are my favorites.

      But today I will hit the road again and soon leave my beloved Veracruz. Like California, I will miss it as soon as I leave and always plan a return trip.

      The locals are starting to stir and the loudspeaker cars blaring out ads are starting to come by. I could certainly stay here a few more days but the longest part of the trip still remains. Besides, I’m not really a tourist but more of a researcher on this trip. Mel Gibson is supposedly making a movie here and I haven’t even had a chance to speak with him yet…ha.

      But I didn’t come to talk to Mel or other English speakers…I came looking for something else….

Jack D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: Cannibalism, Progress and Cafe Lechero

The rolling, lush green hills of Papantla gradually give way to a more sparse coastal brush as we pass Tecolutla and head toward Costa Esmeralda. The Emerald Coast is a strip of development maybe 15 kilometers long that is right along the beach. It reminds me of the beach areas in South Carolina or Florida. The last ten years have seen a real construction boom in Mexico and a lot of that development has been along the coast. Let’s just hope that nature is kind and spares this area from any major hurricanes…the development goes right down to the water’s edge.

      But still there are huge tracts of undeveloped land along the coast. There is some agriculture but a lot of the land is pasture for cattle. I do see signs in some of the fields that the land is for sale and development…it will only be a matter of time. One of the real plusses for central and southern Veracruz is the water availability; so much runoff comes from the eastern Sierras and the rainfall is so plentiful that it seems there will always be a plentiful supply of water. That is one advantage of the tropics as opposed to Mexico’s arid, dry northern tier.

      Even just north of the city of Vera Cruz there is still plenty of open space. For the ‘foreigner’ this contrast is striking and I can only imagine what a Japanese developer must think, ha!

      The highways are much better now and we make better time than I anticipated. We will be staying with Licho and Carmela in their house in the suburbs though the Mexican suburbs are not what we think of as suburbs in the U.S. Licho lives in a nicer section of Colonia Lomas with a great ocean view.

      But life is good in the suburbs! Licho is not back from work yet so we park outside and take a good long walk…a pleasant change after a good long drive. What is odd about this area and many suburban areas is that there will be some very nice homes as well as homes that are run down. There is a greater mix of socioeconomic types and not as much homogeneity as in the U.S. There is also a lot of trash on the streets and some of the smaller parks are filled with trash…city services are expensive and as with most of Mexico, there is a limited tax base to support those services. We walk past a soccer field where youth teams are in colorful uniforms getting ready to play. But the field has no grass…it is packed dirt and dusty – another reminder that services come at a cost.

      We walk to a nice view overlooking the ocean and can see the lighthouse and island in the harbor. I remind Angelica that Cortez landed on a nearby island called Isla de Sacrificios about 500 years ago. He called it that because of evidence of cannibalism he found there and it is still a popular tourist spot. I always take the opportunity to chide her for her Indian ancestry and she counters with ‘if you go far enough back in your family tree you will find they were eating each other too’ –‘todos nos comemos’ she comments.

I have a good laugh on that one and suppose she is right…As Americans many of us don’t particularly care to go back more than several generations because we have an immigrant history of poverty and crime and so on…why dwell too much on the past? ha! And the further modern man goes back the less savory the tradition…at least from my point of view…I’m more a modern person looking at the present and future…ha! At least we don’t eat each other…

      When we get back Licho is glad to see us and is excited! I am too because most of my Mexican friends are poor and he has a nice big house with three floors, five bedrooms and three baths…tonight we will not be sleeping on a dirt floor, ha! For the past few weeks all sorts of critters have been biting my legs and arms and back and it will be nice sleeping in comfort tonight…

      But Licho isn’t tired after work and wants to go out and show me the sights. He insists on driving and I don’t argue…I haven’t had too many guided tours since leaving Dr. G’s… ha! We drive downtown to the old section and much of it has been redone; though I can still recognize certain streets and landmarks in the very center. There are more modern buildings than I remember and he suggests we take a ride to Boca del Rio along the coastal boulevard.

      In the old days, and I’m beginning to realize just how old the old days are now, there was a stretch of land south of Vera Cruz before hitting Boca del Rio, which was a sleepy little village best known for it’s inexpensive and delicious seafood. That has all changed…it’s all one city and now looks like Las Vegas or Cancun. Many of the major hotel chains are there now and there are nightclubs and restaurants to match. We take some side streets off the boulevard and see luxury homes and condos – this is the most expensive area now in Vera Cruz he explains. I can believe it…it’s very upscale. Costco, Office Depot and a lot of the same stores in California…

      Many of the tourists here are Mexican, especially from Mexico City which is only three hours away. Especially during Christmas and Easter, it’s packed he explains. Everyone that can wants to get out of the Distrito Federal, he laughs. Sometimes it’s so busy along the boulevard the traffic just stops…but that’s how we like it, he says, especially in Semana Santa or Easter and Carnaval or Mardi Gras. All of Vera Cruz changes during the big fiestas…

      We drive back to the city center and he suggests we stop for a traditional café lechero – or two. We have some catching up to do…

      Licho is a full partner in a law firm and has had some interesting cases over the years.

      I still do some work for the Laguna Verde nuclear power plant… but that work has tapered off in the past few years he laments. It was great when things were hot…he laughs. That’s actually been the best our firm has ever done. The problem was when the plant first opened, there was no one that could explain how things were done – they all tried to write out these complex chemical formulas. And that created a lot of apprehension. Now things have calmed down and no Chernobyl type disasters have happened and even the ecologists are much calmer now.

      When the plant first opened it received world wide attention. It was part of a larger power grid network plan that also involved thermoelectric French plants such as the large ones in Tuxpan. He explained that the thirst for electric power is exponential and keeps growing…I tell him I understand and that when the power goes off in our area, everything stops. He said the power plant actually has a lifespan of 40 years but because of the increased demand the production has been stepped up and the lifespan decreased.

      In another dozen or so years they will have to build another reactor at the same location and our business should go up again he laughs…I won’t retire until after then, he laughs again.

      Since then he has traveled numerous times to Texas and New York on business. He said that one of the odd things he noticed was how a number of Latinos or Chicanos were anti-Mexican.

      I thought they would be big on La Raza and all that, he said shaking his head, but they don’t speak Spanish and dislike everything Mexican. What’s going on there, amigo? Just what is their problem? And their politicians seem to feel the same way…I think those Latino businessmen didn’t like me either…maybe they thought I swam across the river too, he laughs.

      I answer I truly don’t know why but the issue exists…maybe it has something to do with immigrants wanting to forget their past.

      A strange thing was what happened here in Vera Cruz some years back, he continued. As you know, the state of Veracruz is one of the richest in Mexico but also one of the poorest…how can that be? Well, the simple answer is that it has also been one of the most corrupt…

      There were a number of business groups that wanted the U.S. to annex Veracruz State in exchange for writing off some of the foreign debt. Many of these groups were serious because they were so desperate…they figured that it was the only way Veracruz could develop. As you well know, we Mexicans and even we businessmen are ambivalent on how we feel about the U.S. but we do admire your business expertise…just look at all the U.S. corporations that we saw tonight building in Boca del Rio. You Americans analyze and study and look at the markets and so on…we Mexicans just invest and build and hope things will turn out…and often they don’t.

      He looked at his watch and it was almost 2:00 AM. I have to get to work by 7:00 tomorrow he says, we have some big cases and I’ve been putting in massive hours…you know how it is, he laughs.

      We drive back to his house and he parks on the street…put your car in my garage, I’ll leave the SUV inside, he insists…I have to leave very early and you can sleep in. I won’t get back until late but we can have another conversation then…it’s been great talking with you!

      I protest that no one is going to steal my beat up Honda with a bunch of books and camping gear but he insists. He has a huge two car garage and plenty of room for the Honda…

      I don’t argue because I’ve learned a good guest never insults the host, right?

Jack D. Deal


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July 25, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Why the Mayans Advise Not Sitting Under the Chechen Tree

Tia is waiting for us. She is going to fix us a fish dinner and calls Tio on the phone. He has an HVAC company in an industrial park and an air conditioning storefront in the city center. A great business for the heat and humidity and this isn’t even summer time…

      They live in one of those mixed neighborhoods that we homogenized Americans have trouble figuring out. They have a nice three story house and a two car garage where they tell me to park my car. Their car is better than mine but they insist…around them are several nice homes but at the end of the street is and empty lot filled with trash and two jacalitos or shanties. Above them on a hill are more shanties and it looks like it must be a squatter’s development…

      Tia gives us a fish stew with half a fish in it. It’s delicious. She also fries for each of us a whole red snapper or chakis – the first of many Maya words I would encounter. She shows me the fish before frying it – the eyes are crystal clear, a sure sign the fish is very fresh. She also has fillets in a garlic sauce baking in the oven. This is what I call a real fish dinner! Tortillas, black beans, cucumber salad and a type of radish salad round out the menu…with green, red and habenero chile salsas to go with it. The salsas are very hot but fortunately the beer is very cold…this is probably one of the best fish meals I have ever had. This was one fabulous meal! After we have eaten our fill, Tia brings out dessert. I simply can’t do it…if there were any room left in my stomach I would eat more fish….

      We stand up and Tio pulls me aside.

      I need to ask you something and maybe a favor, he says.

      Oh no, I think, hopefully it’s not a man-woman type question or another gripe about Yanqui imperialism.

      As you know, we Mexicanos are very close with our families, he says.

      I nod my head in agreement.

      We have a problem, or rather my brother has a problem, he continues, he has a son that went to Chicago about four years ago. He went to work with a cousin and found a good job as a welder – welding is not easy and a good welder can get plenty of work and make good money.

      I nod my head again.

      The problem is we have not heard from him in almost two years. The recent news about the immigrants getting killed has been worrying us and we wonder if he is still alive…his wife cries thinking he may be dead. He has two young sons as well…for the first two years he would call every week and send money regularly…then it just stopped. We tried calling the construction company where he works, but since we don’t speak English very well, we weren’t very sure what they were saying. They would give us a number and we would call but it always ended up with leave a message and we’ll call back. They never did…would you do us a favor and call them for us? Maybe you can explain it to them and see if you can get through…it’s a very big company and we have five or six phone numbers.

      Sure, Tio, I answer, but it’s Saturday and the offices will be closed.

      No, no sobrino, next week sometime, he laughs.

      Sure, Tio, I can use my cell…but Tio, it’s not very likely he was killed, I add.

      Why do you say that? he asked.

      Sure accidents and bad things happen, but it’s pretty rare, I say lowering my voice and when it does happen they get hold of the family and let them know…and he probably had friends that would make sure you got the bad news, it’s more likely he found another woman.

      My brother and I discussed that too, he replied, but it’s not like my nephew was that kind of man…he left to go work in the U.S. so he could send his children to school. Why would he not call or send money, even if he found another woman?

      I can’t say, but I promise I will call and try to help find out, I answer, but I’m not sure if they will give me much information, but I will try…

      Thanks, sobrino, that’s all you can do…and we want to thank you so much for your help. Let’s have another beer.

      I am very full but agree – anything to get off such a sad subject. I’ve seen and heard this immigrant tale before and I can almost bet he found another woman…just as Gabriel’s widow crossed the border and quickly found another man, leaving her children behind. Necessity and the search for opportunity can sometimes rip families apart…a sad fact many of us in the U.S. never consider. We don’t know what it’s like when a loved one crosses the river or walks across the desert and is not heard from. And it’s hard to say why one leaves ones family completely behind and starts a new life, but it’s not uncommon – it’s much more common than accidents or murder.

I will try my best to help but am certain that even if I can find something out, they will not like it. Whatever the answer it will not be a pleasant one…but ultimately knowing is better than not knowing…what joy is there in finding out he is alive but has abandoned his family? But if it were my son, I would want to know too…being a father, I can identify with a father’s pain. But being an American, even for me it is hard to identify with the problem of one’s children leaving and illegally entering another country. That is a pain most Americans will never know…

      The conversation turns lighter and I’m glad. Tio kids me about my lack of hair and said he had the same problem but an herb doctor fixed him up. I tell him he looks pretty thin on top too and should ask for his money back…he laughs. All the Gulf coast folks like a good laugh. He asks me if I would like to go to the museums or visit the Indian ruins which are everywhere. I tell him no; I prefer to visit with people and socialize with them. He doesn’t really understand how it could be one’s job to do that but he’s glad too. He’s seen all the local museums and been to all the ruins many times.

      I’ll take you to the country tomorrow but be careful of the chenchen tree, he warns, you don’t want to go near it.

      Why? I ask. I can’t remember anyone ever telling me avoid getting near a tree.

      I’m not sure whether it’s the resin or pollen or what, he answers, but if it gets on you, you will get stained with sores and they will irritate you for weeks. The only cure is like an antidote; a special salve the Maya prepare from herbs.

      Maybe I’ll just take a picture then; I laugh, and not get too close.

      He laughs and pours me more beer. We talk of other oddities, like pan de cazon or fish bread. He laughs when I tell him I couldn’t imagine such a thing let alone ever have seen it.

      What is striking is his Campechana accent and the many Maya words that he uses. Tia too…they think nothing of these Maya words as they have become part of their vernacular. Once again I see the very strong regional differences in accent and vocabulary and in this instance, the very strong influence of the Maya language. Again I think it most odd that the Maya language is so well documented and the grammars established but how so little is known about how it has been regionally integrated with Spanish. I know it’s all a question of language usage and regional influence but I can’t help being curious…

I make a mental note to come back some day and find out more…. There has been a great deal of resurging interest in Indian dialects and languages and hopefully more interest in the vernacular as well…I have never made an effort to learn an Indian language but find it very odd that so many words have been integrated into Spanish; just as English has been integrated into the Vera Cruz Spanish.

      And Tio can speak some Maya too. And he grew up speaking Huasteco. And of course Spanish. Once again not only proof we can all speak a language but also more than one…

      For instance, he says, huich in Huasteco means flower, but in Maya it means dog urine.

      I’ll be careful on that one, I laugh, I wouldn’t want to tell someone their flowers are dog urine…they might take it the wrong way. He says a lot of the words are very similar and I ask if they come from the same roots, maybe Nahuatl. He says he doesn’t know…

      But I bet they do, just like English and Spanish. But it will be some time before I integrate huich into my active Spanish vocabulary…ha!


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July 22, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Voodoo, Spiritualism and the Old Testament

Buenas, says Martin loudly outside the hut.

      An older woman appears at the door.

      Pasate, compadre, she says with a smile.

      He introduces me as an old and dear friend. She shakes my hand and says she will fix me something to eat.

      No, gracias, says Martin, Gloria is preparing us something back at our house. How is Ramirito?

      Ah, compadre, she says shaking her head, he is better some days than others. Last night he was up most of the night. The neighbors complain sometimes but most are used to it by now.

      Gloria sent him some enchiladas, says Martin.

      She brings a plastic plate and empties the enchiladas on them. No fork, she laughs.

      We pass through the hut and into the back yard. At the back I can see a figure lying on the ground near a large tree. We walk toward Ramirito and he begins to stir…I can see his leg is chained to the tree.

      Como estas, Ramirito? asks Martin.

      The man begins to move and slowly sits up. He smiles at Martin and then at me.

      I’m fine, he replies, and just about ready to find my treasure.

      Next to him is a hole maybe a meter wide and half a meter deep. It looks to me like he is trying to dig a grave.

      Not too close, Martin warms me, he’s usually fine but sometimes he gets angry and has sharp fingernails.

      Martin puts the enchilada plate on a block of wood near the hole. Ramirito grabs one and stuffs it in his mouth and smiles…getting the sauce and bits of tortilla on his beard. We sit down on a log just outside the chain’s length.

      Ramirito looks at me and points his finger…

      I know that cabron, he laughs, and he is the one that stole my cows near Coyutla.

      Martin looks at me and grins.

      You are staying busy these days, amigo, he laughs at me. When Ramirito was younger, he explains, he was a bright kid and hard worker. Then he started going to the cantinas and from there things went downhill. He’s not always like this…and sometimes he can work in the fields for months at a time. But when he gets like this, they have to put a chain on him.

      Did he ever see a doctor? I ask.

      Of course…at first his mother took him to the curandero but nothing worked. Finally they took him to a doctor in Poza Rica and the doctor said he was crazy. He said there were some pills that might help, but there was no guarantee. The doctor said that if the pills did not work he would have to go to the hospital for the insane, which is a bad place according to the doctor.

      His mother got scared and said that if Ramirito was going to die, he would die surrounded by his family. So she brought him here…sometimes he gets happy and sometimes he won’t eat for several days.

      I thought it sounds like manic depression but I’m not a psychiatrist. Ramirito stood up and I got a good look at him. He looked healthy and his clothes were relatively clean after having slept on the dirt. There was a slight odor to him but not what one would expect from one constantly chained to a tree. It was clear he was being well cared for.

      They put the chain on him so he doesn’t wander, explained Martin, when he wanders off he can get into all kinds of trouble and could get hurt…people are afraid of crazy people and some throw rocks at him…

      Ramirito smiled at us and ate the rest of the enchiladas. Martin stood up and told him we had to go, that Gloria was waiting for us back at his house.

      Gracias, como siempre, said Ramirito’s mother, thank you for not forgetting about us.

      Como no, comadre, said Martin, you know I will never forget you. I’ll come back in a few days.

      We didn’t say anything as we walked back to Martin’s house. Within an hour I heard of a young boy that died of dehydration and a young man whose future is chained to a tree. Such is the third world. People do what they can to survive and sometimes even that is not possible. They sometimes go to the U.S. to escape their misery.

      We Americans are so ethnocentric and think these folks that come up to work in the U.S. are criminals, even as we admit we have no one else that will pick our vegetables or wash our dishes or tend to our babies

      We get back to Martin’s hut and I realize the best hope is development… something that has been bothering me all day.

      Some say that Ramirito’s mother went to a spiritualist when she was pregnant with him and the devil made Ramirito that way, says Gloria as she serves us coffee. What do you think, amigo, she asks me.

      I’m beginning to dislike that question, I reply back to her, it’s not like I have any special insight into the mysteries of life…

      But you are a Gringo and have read books and gone to school and traveled, she laughs…I think it was the devil disguised as spirits…she said.

      I could not discount that as a possibility, even though remote. There could be a power of suggestion involved, but I doubt that too…I’m not sure even the brightest among us can always determine the exact cause and effect. Hence all or myths and neuroses…

      Poor and isolated folks often want a cause and effect and cannot understand anything else. The Greeks, Romans and other ancients did it through mythology. Many modern folks do it through their religion and culture. The Jehovah’s do it through the Old Testament and Revelation; the Catholics do it through the Virgin and the Saints. Modern secular man does it through capitalism or communism or politics or poetry. It’s simply a matter of perspective...

      We want the easy answer and feel uneasy when there are unknowns. But unknowns are a part of the modern life…there are so many things, like language and thought, that will be decades or centuries away before we begin to understand. Then as we know more, we realize there is more we don’t know and that too makes us uneasy. When will it ever stop?

      The answer is it doesn’t. We try to create feeble links between what we know and what we don’t know, just like the ancients. We create fables and myths and prejudices and art. We try to filter the new and unknown though what we know, our experiences and our perspectives. Sometimes it fits nicely and sometimes it doesn’t. When it doesn’t, we retreat back into a defensive position and feel threatened with anything that is different. At the first sign of cognitive dissonance we retreat to the figurative caves we build inside our heads…

      So the liberal becomes more liberal and the conservative more conservative. The fundamentalist becomes more fundamental. Those that believe in the Virgin become more certain that those that don’t worship the devil. The curanderos think modern medicine is quackery and doctors exploit the poor for their own advantage. The doctors feel that anything not involving surgery and prescriptions is voodoo. The mediocre feel threatened by those that have ambition and the ambitious feel the mediocre are lazy and hurt progress.

      It’s not a very pretty picture that we humans paint. It’s as ugly as a kid dying of dehydration and a young man being chained to a tree.

      The late afternoon sun is shining in all its glory on Gloria’s Garden of Eden. I remark how beautiful it all is and she smiles with pride. Martin and Gloria may be poor but they live in paradise.

      I apologize for having to leave but I don’t like to drive at night. They understand and we hug and are once again I am again off down my endless road…

Jack  D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: God Hates the Poor and Slow Changing Behaviors

I saw Castro on the news and he was complaining that the U.S. was building a wall just like in Berlin. I thought the Russians were his ally back then, ha! He never said anything back then about the Berlin Wall. Now he wants to ‘help’ Mexico…some ‘help’. I also saw in the newspaper where Marcos of the Zapatistas is against capitalism…but just what he is for remains to be seen – other than hiding out in the jungle. Odd that those two giant egos never get together…probably they are afraid of stealing each other’s thunder, ha!

      We decide to go to some rancherias way out and visit some friends near Coyutla. The town square or plaza of Coyutla is its best known landmark; the large, old tree in the center of the square is a point of reference for all. It is said that many a man was hung from the tree during the Revolution; their bodies were swayed and impaled on machetes. I can’t say for sure this is true, but then again I can’t say it wasn’t…

      It’s market day and we do the customary tour and eat sacahuil. I have eaten so much sacahuil I’m beginning to get my fill, ha! I keep thinking of communism and capitalism and how towns like Coyutla are the immigration feeder towns for illegal labor to the U.S.

      I wonder again about the local economic base. As in most rural areas that base is nearly entirely agricultural and internal consumption. As with agriculture everywhere, mechanization has reduced the need for farm labor so ag employment has in fact been going down. Construction is one of the largest employers and many ex farm hands are now working in construction; it also pays better. Folks have to eat and buy clothes, but there can only be so many vendors before the market becomes oversaturated. Or until Wal-Mart comes to town. I saw in the paper where Poza Rica will be getting a McDonald’s and Holiday Inn and a hundred years from now they will be in Coyutla too.

      But how to go from third world to first is a problem worldwide; we certainly have that problem in California as well. So many things have to come together to make that happen that it seems to be a futile task; but it is the only solution to slow down the rate at which thousands of Mexicans illegally stream across the border each day.

      Education is always touted as the answer but it’s more than that – if schools were the total answer most of the planet would be first world. Until a people understand and own the concepts of individual initiative and the entrepreneurial spirit, no amount of capital and infrastructure will work. Imposed economic development projects are a dime a dozen worldwide and are often nothing more than lip service and politics. Changing individual, group and community economic behaviors is a clear key but usually overlooked. Often projects designed to raise the economic base treat the participants as if they are retarded or disabled….the bureaucracy claiming folks just need more education and there’s not much that can be done beyond that.

      In Coyutla I hear the omnipresent rap music and see the English language T-shirts and wonder about that effect as well. The simple exposure to another culture and the hundreds of locals now working in the U.S. has certainly changed behaviors; many youth see going to the U.S. as their career ladder.

      The folks are more Indian in Coyutla; speak Nahuatl and Spanish, though the Spanish I hear is often simple present, past and future. They shake hands by lightly touching the finger tips, never a hard grasp. That hasn’t changed in the last 30 years, though the rap, T-shirts and mass migration to the U.S. has.

      I know that simply teaching English and setting up computer labs is not enough.  Behaviors are very slow to change and as I look at the good people of Coyutla I wonder if anything other than going to the U.S. can create significant change. It’s a complex and frustrating issue worldwide, and today it appears particularly frustrating to me here…

      We head out of town and head toward the ejido of San Bernadino. Along the dirt road we see men staggering and their women and children following behind. I’m careful not to hit them as they stumble along. I remember seeing men lying along the side of the streets outside Tierra Blanca after payday, their women and children waiting patiently for them to sober up so they could go home. As in the U.S., beer and liquor bottles now carry the warning that excessive drink can be hazardous to your health. And clearly to one’s family as well…

      We reach Antonia’s hut and she is so glad to see us. I hadn’t seen her in many years so we catch up on all the latest developments. She has two daughters living in Reynosa now; once again evidence of that border Reynosa Syndrome. And also two sons living in North Carolina. A cousin took them there, she explains, and he is a house painter. Neither of them knew painting before since they worked as campesinos and ranch hands. One married an American, has two kids and now has his papers…the other is still a ‘mojado’ or wetback she laughs. We say adios and are off to Martin and Gloria’s house.

      The road is horrible and I’m sure impassable in the rainy season. But in any season one really needs a truck. Infrastructure is a key to development and without good roads, electricity, water, etc; regions remain isolated from the mainstream economy. Mexico is full of these regions and it remains a huge problem for rural development.

      Martin and Gloria give us hugs and Gloria starts to prepare food. It’s a custom and the first thing folks feel inclined to do when having visitors. She hands him a plastic bag with enchiladas and he asks me if I want to go for a walk. Angelica frowns thinking he wants to take me to the cantina, which are everywhere, even in the remote rancherias.

      We walk out his back yard and I comment how it looks like a Garden of Eden…and I comment that only the wealthy have such gardens in California. He laughs and says Gloria has always loved plants and everywhere he works he brings her back a plant…much cheaper than gold or diamonds he laughs.

      We walk past several huts and he says ‘buenas’ loudly and the folks inside respond. That one was a sad case, he said pointing to a hut with blue painted mud walls. Several weeks ago one of their children died; Gloria helped dress the body. The little boy had diarrhea and was vomiting and he just died. They are very poor people and took him first to the curandero but the boy just got worst. They were taking him to the Red Cross in Coyutla and he died on the way. If there is a God, he certainly hates the poor, no amigo?

      I mumble something stupid and think it was a case of dehydration – a simple IV drip may have saved the boys life. The kind of IV drip they give football players after a game on a hot day…cheap, common and easily administered. Something is not right when a child dies because they cannot get five or ten dollars worth of medicine. It’s a hard, cruel word and especially so for the poor…We stop outside another hut and Martin touches me on the arm.

      This is not very pleasant what we are going to see, he says, you can wait outside if you like.

      No, Martin, you know me, I laugh, and I’m not one to shy away from things…

      I know amigo, I know, he says touching me on the shoulder, I’ve always liked that about you – you’re like one of us.

      I’m not as sure as he is about that. And I certainly was not prepared for what I saw next...

Jack D. Deal


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July 21, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Zacahuil, Tamazunchale and Compadres

We left Axtla at the very crack of dawn – roosters crowing and the stars still out. There was a mist along the river and it gave the jungle a surreal early morning effect. It was Christmas Eve and there was lots of traffic and busses and folks waiting to go see their families. In Mexico it is traditional to have a late night Christmas Eve dinner with the family and it seemed as if everyone was going at once.

      We stopped in Matlalpa to get a coffee. In the countryside, coffee is ground and boiled and ‘pilon’ or raw sugar cane added. I like coffee very hot and this coffee was both hot and delicious.  The lady called Angelica commadre. 

      The whole issue of compadres and comadres is a confusing one for the foreigner. Sometimes it is confusing for the Mexicans as well. Technically speaking, a compadre is a godfather. When children are baptized, non-blood relatives are designated as compadres and comadres. This special relationship lasts a lifetime. Over time, the terms have become common when used to designate a close friend. The purists may not like the way the terms are used but the vernacular does not ask for permission and usage is usage. It is also good to see folks that are very interested in the politics and governments that affect them…of course there is some indifference but there is also passion. We Mexicans are a passionate people.

      At Tamazunchale we ran into a Christmas Eve traffic jam and sat for a good 45 minutes before crossing the bridge. Tamazunchale is situated in a series of steep hills with narrow and congested streets. In these poorer cities there is little urban planning so development goes ‘naturally’ and wherever it can. New developments and ‘colonias’ are always on the fringe of the urban areas and end abruptly. In less than half a kilometer the development stops and fields and pastures begin. It is a common occurrence in poorer areas and somewhat striking.

      The reason is transportation. Poor people see no sense in living in remote areas if they can help it. It costs more by bus or taxi to get to town. And it takes longer as well. Usually a farmer will sell his land off as parcels for housing; often mud wall huts or simple rooms made of cinderblock. Of course there is usually no water, sewer or electricity until the colonia grows and gains some political clout. Poor areas have traditionally had little clout.

      We continue on the road to Huejutla. The countryside is very pretty and there are no tourists – not even Germans, ha! All the towns and ranchos have Indian names such as Coacuiclo and Orizatlan. Some have 15 or 20 letters.

      The weather has finally broken and I’m feeling the best I have in weeks. My head cold left with the cold and damp of the nortes. And the smog of Monterrey. Some say this clear winter weather of Mexico is the best in the world – hence the tourist season…warm in the sun and cool in the shade. Very blue, cloudless skies with a bright sun that brings out the green/blue in water and the many shades of jungle green. Stellar is the best word I can use to describe it. It is truly spectacular.

      As we drive along we see pick-ups with as many as 25 passengers standing in the back. These trucks come from the ranches and small villages and the residents take advantage of the ride. By necessity these trucks go very slow and we drive along behind several of them on this highway…the passengers staring at our Accord wagon and funny license plates.

      The streams and arroyos are crystal clear and we see women washing clothes along the banks. It is reassuring for me to know there are still many areas that are relatively untouched by urban blight, smog and rap – an easy lifetime of exploration for all you adventurers still out there. I make a vow to myself to come back someday with a truck and explore the remote valleys and mountains and the Indians that live there. But that is another trip for another day…reassuring for this veteran wanderer.

      We are hungry and pull over at a road stand selling sacahuil, the traditional Huasteca food known throughout Mexico. The two younger women speak a type of broken Spanish, though easily understood. They are of course bilingual in Spanish and Nahuatl. A bit shy and without that hard edge of city civilization. Proof again that folks anywhere can learn multiple languages.

      At Huejutla we hit another traffic jam and it takes us a half hour to get to the center of town. Maybe someday Mexico will become less centralized and the traffic spread out to outlying areas…it’s dusty, hot and tempers are hot too. Ah, civilization! We stop at the huge downtown market and wander for several hours. We buy some fruit and sparklers but we could have bought pretty much anything; stoves, clothes, stereos and medicines included. We go into the stone church and I am once again reminded of the strong influence of Catholicism. As is typical with most churches, there are the faithful praying fervently with tears down their cheeks as they ask various saints or the Virgin for assistance. Tragedy and sadness are a part of everyday life and it never stops.

      It takes us another 45 minutes to get out of town and once again immediately into the countryside. It’s warmer now and the climate is much drier and considered to be subtropical. We take the back road to Tantoyuca and decide to stop and see my old friend Arturo. It has probably been at least 15 years since I have seen him and since he often works in different parts of Mexico, Christmas Eve would be a great time to catch him at home.

       But how Tantoyuca has changed! It has now developed on both sides of the highway and is now a small city. I am amazed….

      We find Arturo’s colonia but don’t recognize his house. Then I see him standing in the doorway of a larger house and realize it is his…I see that over the years he has built a larger and larger house for his extended family just as I have built mine of experience and adventure. He gives me a big hug and starts to choke up…

      Ah, amigo, he chokes, the older one gets the less sure one is of seeing long lost friends. I was not sure if I would ever see you again and you don’t know how happy I am that you came for a visit!

      He brings in beer and we catch up on the many years that have passed since we last spoke. It was from him I first heard about Xilitla.

      Ah amigo, he laughs as we drink more beer and the conversation loosens up. There are bonds in this life that can never be broken and you and I will have that bond until we die and maybe after that, he laughs. It goes so deep it runs to our very soul he adds pointing to his heart. I am a poor man but having an amigo like you makes me rich, he laughs.

      I laugh too. At that moment I felt particularly wealthy…

Jack D. Deal


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July 20, 2007

The Mexican Soap Opera Novela Buzz: La Fea Mas Bella or Culture Mirrors Society

When we went to Mexico on our Road Trip La Fea had just started airing.   That was back over a year ago when Lopez Obrador had a 30 point margin in the polls and was considered a shoo-in for Presidente which he ended up "giving away" in one of the most bizarre political crashes in modern hisory.   So much has changed since La Fea began...Mexico has matured politically and we have all gotten older and probably changed some too...   

     In case you have not heard, La Fea Mas Bella, the Prettiest Ugly One, is the most popular soap opera ever to appear on Mexican TV.   Univision carried the show in the U.S.   The concept originally began with a similar show in Colombia and now in the U.S. with Ugly Betty.   The name Leticia Padilla Solis, La Fea, has become a household word on both sides of the border. 

     The Mexican soap operas are famous not only in Mexico but internationally as well.   They have been exported to Asia and Russia and are some of the most popular TV series in all of Latin America.     Go to any city, town or village in Mexico and you will hear the soapers blasting out over the TV airwaves.  Go to a hut in the country with a TV antenna and they will be watching the soapers.  Essentially the soapers start in early afternoon and run until late at night with news breaks.   Many Mexican families, on both sides of the border will sit at night and watch one after the other.   Some families, like ours, get torn between two sagas and channel flip between two and even three soaps.  Go figure.

     I thought La Fea would never end, just like I give up on most of them.   But I'm a man and not a soaperly sensitive one at that, so my sarcastic comments don't really count.   My problem is the soaps get some really good drama going and then they start going in circles as if the writers hit a sweet spot and don't want to let it go.   I  get to the point where I don't care anymore and start saying things I probably shouldn't in front of those that at least on some level do care.   In the case of La Fea and it's stunning rise to fame, all involved wanted to stretch that success out.   

    Being a not so sensitive male I sometimes watch the soapers to maintain household equanimity and some of them are fun.   I like the Spanish and sometimes the accents and as in the case with La Fea, I love it when they go on remote locations and get away from the Mexico City studio sets.   I've been to so many places in Mexico that I can often tell where the scenes are being shot.   

    The plots usually involve a love triangle, as in the case of La Fea where she cannot decide between two hunks; or someone looking for their real father, mother, son or daughter.   Soaper plots leave a convoluted, virtual DNA trail and sometimes one needs a whiteboard to track all the ins and outs of illicit human relationships.   That's not to say there are no normal relationships but happily married couples hassling with raising a family just are not interesting enough to keep anyone's attention very long.   Soapers or Novelas are fantasies designed to take one away from reality; not remind one of it.   

     The audience wants sex and innuendos and all the pain and agony that go along with it.   Almost no one except the old folks are happy in their on screen soaper relationships.   The old folks are happy because they have already had all the affairs and illicit relationships they can stomach for one lifetime and their only concern is where are their long lost children and are there any surprises left.   We love it when one finds a lover/spouse in the arms of another and then tries to explain it was just being friendly...ha, yeah, we know what goes on behind soaper closed doors.   After all, the writers clearly know what we are going to be thinking way before we do...

     My neighbor starts with the novelas in the evening and watches them all  until the late news.   My relatives do the same in LA, often eating dinner with their favorites.  La Fea is just one of many that compete for viewer time and attention and advertising ratings.   My current favorite is Zorro; a dashing swashbuckler that rides a wicked horse and has his choice of hot babes; my kind of guy. Zorro steals from the rich but secretly he's a rich guy as well so who says you can't have your cake and eat it too a la Zorro...and somehow no one can tell it's him since he wears one of those eye masks.   Zorro makes the perfect rich progressive liberal.   

     But at my house Zorro competes with Distilando Amor, a shouting match between arrogant couples who don't want to be with each other anymore; California style love.    The highlight of the show is that a lot of it is shot on location in Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico; one of my favorite spots in Western Mexico.   And the place, by the way, where Tequila is made.   Distilando Amor is translated to Distilling Love, which can have various innuendos I suppose...

    La Fea shot over 550 episodes and several of the actors had to be treated for exhaustion.   After that many episodes, some of us in the audience needed treatment as well.  What carried La Fea was some of the great individual performances, such as Don Fernando by Jaime Camille and Luigi Lombardi played by Sergio Meyer.   Luigi was probably the cutest character as he played a highly successful, productive and openly gay film director.   

     Alicia Ferreira, Paty Navidad in real life, was a favorite among the guys and each episode would compete with how high her mini-skirt and low her blouses would go.   A lot of guys like me watched the show to watch Alicia...Jose Jose, the singer from the vintage years known as the Principe de la Cancion or Prince of Song, was great as Lety's dad even though his voice is coarse and gravely now.   Angelica Maria, Mexico's girlfriend or La Novia de Mexico, tried to play part of a comedy team but Jose stole the show, even though Angelica Maria is Lety's, Angelica Valle's, real mother in real life.   For Angelica Maria the show was a fantasy...

      La Fea emphasized the need to look beyond the superficial outer to the inner to find real beauty; sort of a Soaper Zen strategy.   That's not the way it works in real life but since soapers are fantasy anyway...why not give it a try.   The  success of the show was unexpected by all.  In a post 'grand final' interview, Angelica Maria said her role as Lety's mother was originally only going to be in 14 episodes but La Fea started to get very popular and the writers gave her a larger and more compelling  role especially in the mother/daughter talks.    Throughout the series Lety was very loyal to her family, even though a company executive she still was expected to come home at a reasonable hour.    

     One really bright spot was the humor spread throughout each episode.   Despite the high drama romances there was always time for a joke or two.   The humor probably kept many marginal viewers like me tuned in for longer than we normally would which should give the writers more incentive to add more humor to other soapers so marginal viewers like me will hang around to the Gran Final.

     So the big question in the end was who was Lety going to pick?  Don Fernando or Aldo?   All over Mexico and the U.S. that question has been debated.   The soaper ended about two months ago in Mexico and since I read the online papers everyday I know who she picked there.  But I also read where they filmed two versions so maybe the ending will be different here than in Mexico.  That's to keep savvy viewers like me guessing...

     Who cares?   It's only a soaper...true.   But it's interesting to note that La Fea actually had more viewers in the U.S. than the Oscars, which ought to say something from a marketing standpoint.   One could theorize that the soaper was amazingly well done or the Oscars have degenerated into something amazingly poorly done. Obviously it's a combination of both.   

   Tonight it all ended and Lety went with Don Fernando as predicted.   Aldo played by Juan Soler was too goofy and somehow we all suffered so much with Don Fernando's extended remorse that everybody at my house was pulling for him.   In the end Aldo saves an orphan kid on the beach in Acapulco and is seen looking goofily into space as if to say he did not get the girl but did manage to grab some spirituality.   As usual at this point I didn't care who drowned but my opinion matters little. 

      So we say good-bye to our dear friends that we have known over the past few years.   As is customary,  all the tangled relationships worked out somehow in the end and by and large it's all one big  happy ending, a fantasy if there ever was one.   

     But there are battles that remain and new bonds to create with new soapers.   And maybe, just maybe, she'll let me switch to Zorro during the commercials...

Jack D. Deal 


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July 17, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Mexican Caviar, Social Ladder and Sports Cars

Timo starts the day telling me a jungle story that reminds be of a B. Traven story. Yesterday I was Von Humboldt and today Traven, ha!

      The story was about a Mario Cespedes that came to the island from Vera Cruz to fish but did not go back with the other fishermen. He stayed. He went to the most remote part of the island and built his hut and lived there for 15 years. His hair grew long and the only person he would see was Timo and only when Timo would go back into the jungle to hunt or search for a lost farm animal. Whenever Timo and Juana would have a fiesta or special meal he would come to their hut; often the only human contact he would have for months.

      Mario slept under a tarpaper roof that would leak right in the middle. Timo laughs when he tells how Mario would simply spread his legs apart when sleeping instead of fixing his ‘roof’.

      One day Mario’s sons found out where he lived. Knowing his weakness for drink, they took him a case of beer and got him drunk. When he passed out they put him a boat and that was it. He never said goodbye nor ever returned… Sounds just like a Traven story like Macario. I’m sure that’s how Traven picked up all his goodies…sitting at night with some Indians in their chozas drinking coffee and listening to their stories. I now know his secret, ha!

      People ask me how I get to know all these things…well, I just jump in…how else? You have to be an uncomprising adventurer and if you are not, don’t complain. And it’s not just something you can do one summer at college…

      Take fish eggs for instance.  Juana has some hueva or fish eggs she says she will prepare for me as enchiladas. But it’s caviar, I complain, why would you mix other stuff with caviar? ‘Vas a ver, guerro’, she tells me -- you will see white guy. She toasts some hueva on her comal or griddle and gives me a piece. It is very salty. Not caviar, I tell her. That’s why we don’t eat it like that, she answers. What do I know anyway…it’s all part of my journey to see and do it all. Fish eggs or ejidos, it doesn’t matter.

      By now you must have guessed that I am middle aged, ha! One of the strangest things I’ve seen in my middle age is American men that envy me. Why? I ask them…you’ve got a huge house, new cars, flashy wife and your kids all go to Stanford and Harvard and you are insured up the ying yang. What else can you want?

      Maybe so they tell me, but there’s a gaping hole in their life. They climb the social and economic ladders without ever asking why. They join the corporations or become professionals in their twenties and become trapped by mortgages, family obligations and careers. Once they jump in they can’t get out…and they stay in until it is way too late. They then bury themselves in alcohol, drugs, therapies or wild women. And wonder why they keep coming up empty. There aren’t enough gallons of martinis or mounds of Prozac that can ease their pain. What they need is a good dose of fish eggs and ejidos…

      I have little sympathy…to each his own. Sometimes they criticize me and my lack of assets yet can’t see the sadness in their own eyes. They are defensive because they can’t admit they made a mistake. They refuse to change and let go of their hard earned neuroses that cost them so dearly. They search for a non-existent security somewhere out in the ideal… They never realize there is no security. How can one insure something that does not exist?

      Fortunately for me I was able to meet some of these sad men when I was a traveling teenager. I would wonder why they would always envy me even back then and I became suspicious…they had it ‘made’ so why would they envy a poor vagabond like me?

      Over the years I’ve become less judgmental but also less sympathetic. It’s not my fault if you are neurotic, can’t think and constantly worry about your security and possessions. And all you can talk about are your problems. It’s not just me because one of the things I’ve realized is I’m not so special. Folks like Timo have taught me that.

      When I first came to Mexico I suppose I too had a bit of an attitude; a mild one but nonetheless an attitude. The poorest of campesinos would invite me into their hut and give me what had to be the last of their beans and tortillas. And maybe a chile. At first I would refuse and they would feel offended, so later I learned to tell them that I had just eaten a big meal but would love to try a probadita or taste. That way they kept most of the food on their plates, ha! I thought I was pretty smart back then…

      But then they would tell me things that I did not know, things about their life and their universe. I realized I was a fool with a foolish attitude. I lost that attitude and with it the doors kept opening up for me. It was as if by losing my presumptuousness I walked into a new universe of perceptions. Timo may not know what the Internet is but he sure knows a lot about life and living…but not from books or counselors.

      I’m just a curious adventurer that keeps going on the journey…I’m way beyond the point of no return and simply do not care and have no intention of turning back. It’s too late for me to even think about joining the status game…Like Timo says, the journey is my destiny.

      Don’t worry; I tell my distressed and stressed gringo brothers, we’re not in competition. You took your road and I took mine…I won’t even make you feel badly by asking you to compare your stories to mine, ha! My battles are with myself and not you…my measures are internal and have nothing to do with you, your house remodels or your latest sports car. You measure your life in terms of things and status and not what is in your head and heart and that’s not my fault…who can you blame? I have no answers for you and don’t really care about hearing your litany of problems. You and I both know you won’t change. You are up to your eyeballs in it and can’t and won’t get out.

      And besides, you might ask yourself, how many people like Timo do you know?

      Your Prozac is my coconut water and your therapist is my Timo…and after so many years of feeling so superior maybe your chickens are coming home to roost…I wish you the best but there is nothing I can do for you. My Cien Anos de Soledad life patterns have seen your story repeated many times since my teenage days. Over and over and over.

      You can’t help yourself. It’s in your genes. Your cave men ancestors for thousands of generations would take whatever extra they had and hoard it in their caves. Just like you are trying to do…maybe the cave man thought he could hoard away security. Maybe…but starvation and wild animals were always lurking and even the cave did not provide that sought after security…

      But hey, I always want to wish you the best and always good luck! But please, keep your neurotic problems to yourself…that is your destiny...

Jack D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: Aztecs, Toltecs and Tongue Tacos

In Veracruz it is either dusty or muddy; the sun is so strong it can dry things up in a day or two. Today it is windy and rainy; another ‘norte’ that is bringing with it some cold winter weather. With the extreme change in temperature it’s a wonder we aren’t all sick but that is a luxury I do not have on this trip.

      We pass through Poza Rica, a small oil refinery city I remember as being ugly with foul air and congestion. Today it is a bustling city growing and expanding outward as it grows. It is also part of a new highway system or autopista to Mexico City; a drive that normally takes six hours or so depending on the fog and rain in the high eastern Sierras. The new highway will halve the time.

      I wanted to stop in at Castillo de Teayo and take a look at a different kind of Mexican town. I had read how the locals have begun a civic pride campaign in an effort to bring tourists to the area but also make it a better place to live. I was impressed at the changes that have happened. The town is clean and the streets paved. The park with the Castillo is very well done and there is now a museum with the friendliest of people explaining whatever you want to know. In Spanish of course…

      One town away things were very different. There was trash on the highway, men drinking and hanging around outside the bars and a ‘casa de cita’ or whorehouse in plain view just off the road. I made a few inappropriate comments and Angelica is on me quickly. Over the years I’ve come to understand that it is her job…ha!

      Castillo is considered to be Huasteco in culture but also has Totonaco, Tolteca and Azteca influences. The further way from Tinochtitlan or Mexico City one got in the old days the less influence the Aztecs had. There were no roads, wagons or even horses back then….all communication was by foot runner. The farther the runners had to go, the less the influence.

      The stilettos and stone sculptures were impressive. Angelica liked a very small one of a mother and her baby. It was clearly a different age when nearly everything was different from today. The Huastecos flourished here around 1000 A.D., just about the time tribes in England were intermingling and developing modern English. I had to wonder if we would speaking Huasteco today if the same thing had happened back then. But it didn’t and we don’t. More and more we see the power of language and its impact on culture and thought. At times it seems that language is the whole ballgame wrapped up into one big cultural enchilada ...from whence we come.

      I did have a nice chat with the museum director about some new proposed legislation that would decentralize the management of ruins and artifacts. Some senators want to open up more areas and allow for decentralized control. This would make it easier for intercultural exchanges of artifacts and allow ‘outsiders’ to control it. The director is afraid it would also commercialize the whole process – ‘if we don’t have our cultural heritage – what do we have? The rich don’t care about us – all they care about are having our artifacts in their luxury homes.’ He was being very polite because I knew the reference was about many of my fellow countrymen.

      We passed through Tincontlan on our way to Alamo. It’s a nice little town and today was plaza day so we stopped. I had sacahuil and cow tongue tacos…the tacos were much more delicious than the name implies…ha! Tincontlan was also smart in putting riverbed rock under the entire marketplace so it would not become a ‘lodizal’ or mess of mud. Even so I always manage to get my pants muddy…much to the chagrin of my dear wife.

      Today there were several hundred folks waiting to get paid through the Opportunidades program. This program started by the Fox administration, signs up Mexico’s very poorest and provides them with civic work such as picking up trash. The program is also designed to instill civic pride and instruct citizens how to keep their municipalities and rancherias from becoming ugly and eyesores. It also is linked to grants for students and the dispensing of some basic food items. I was impressed and although not much by American safety net standards, it is a start. Before Fox these folks were left to beg or steal with the subsequent social problems. None of the politicians cared…

      It had been many years since I was in Alamo and it has changed dramatically. It is now a commercial and trucking center and not the small town I remember. Progress. I had trouble finding Gabriel’s house and it is now a ‘colonia’ or neighborhood. In the old days I remember his dad raising fighting roosters for cock fights. Now like many parts of rural Mexico, it is becoming a suburb.

      I suppose I should not be judgmental but I cannot understand how a mother can abandon her young children. I suppose it happens in all cultures but it just does not make sense. Even single mothers that have to work come back to see their children whenever they can. Gabriel’s wife left their kids four years ago and has not been back since.

      The oldest boy looks just like him and we had a good talk. He asked me about California life and Disneyland and American culture. He will turn into a fine young man and I told him he could come to stay with us when he was old enough and his grandma gives him permission. He calls her mom.

      But kids are tough by design and Gabriel’s kids will make it fine without their birth mother and father. Sad, but a fact of life.

      He called me ‘tio’ or uncle before I left and I vowed this is one kid I would follow as he grew up. I kept thinking of all those adults that had an impact on me when I was a kid and hoped in some way my impact would be such a positive one.

      Time will tell as it does with everything as I search for the patterns of life in my Cien Anos de Soledad.

      Hopefully ‘el Norte’ will subside and we can take the boat to the island on Saturday.

Jack D. Deal


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July 16, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Bilingual and Bicultural

I often get asked, even by Mexican Americans, what it feels like to be truly bicultural. I sometimes think about it and have to admit I don’t fully understand it myself. Culture is a strange thing and hard to understand especially when one is mono-cultural. To a great extent for me it just happened.

      It’s not that I am a split personality. It’s more like different sides of the same coin. My friend Dr. G says that through a strange combination of things I have been able to slip through the ‘hueco’ or opening of the two cultures and come out on the other side. That’s where I get my perspectives. Maybe he is right, I’m not sure.

      Coming back home to Veracruz has made me wonder about it again. As I walk down a street or go to market I feel as if I belong here. That sense of belonging and home is part of it. So is the language. People here are very surprised at my Spanish but after that, they speak to me as if I were a local. And treat me as though I am Mexican.

      But language is not culture although there can be a very clear relationship between the two. There are many Anglos that speak Spanish very well, yet know little of Mexican culture. I wish I could tell you what culture means in a paragraph or two, but I can’t. Maybe that’s another one you will have to figure out for yourself like I have to do…

      I do know I filter my experiences and behaviors through two very different perspectives. I also know I have a hard time expressing business and technical expressions in Spanish though I can often express my emotions much more accurately in Spanish. You figure it out. Maybe some linguist or culture guru out there has an answer. That’s why I would like to set up a language and culture research center here in Mexico…to get some answers to some very interesting though perplexing questions. As well as figure out why learning a new language is so difficult…

      In the U.S., I don’t go to bars. Maybe once every three or four years with an amigo. But Angelica complains I’m not in Tierra Blanca more than 15 minutes and I’m sneaking off to the cantina.   I tell her the culture makes me do it. 

      Here's another example. I dislike foul language in English. Maybe it’s because I’ve dealt with foul language for many years in a business context and see it as a business problem. I certainly don’t hang around English speakers that use profanity in their daily speech. The American in me sees it as redneck or even subclass.

      Yet when I’m around my Mexican male friends, I can let it go with the best of them. I don’t use it around women or children or the Jehovah’s Witnesses, ha! When I tell Angelica it is simply the vernacular and it's a cultural sort of thing, she frowns like the more lady-like Veracruzanas do when they hear bad words. She says my explaination is nothing more than an excuse. When I tell her many women here are also foul mouthed, she asks me what type of women are they, ones that work in the cantinas and bordellos?  And there I am left wondering  why is there this disparity in my two cultures yet I am one person...I think.   

      As an American, I have nothing against the Puerto Ricans. As a Mexican, I think Puerto Rican music, food and culture has little or no appeal. I certainly don’t like prejudice, but there I am. And after many years, I still don’t like salsa music, though it is certainly popular in California. I’ll take a good cumbia or huapango any day…but that’s me. I am from Veracruz.

      As an American, I feel sorry for the Cubans in Cuba. And I think the Cuban Americans are too right wing for the good of the U.S. -– it’s just not healthy. Yet as a Mexican, I not only think Fidel is an insult to all Latin Americans but the Cubans in Cuba are a stupid people. That is pretty strong but if you listen to them speak they seem intellectually like little kids. They can’t think and are unable to do much of anything for themselves thanks to Fidel and his ‘revolution’. All they can do is spout the party line. Stupid is as stupid does…why do I think this way as a Mexican but not a Gringo?

      As an American I feel insulted when someone asks me for a bribe or ‘mordida’. As a Mexican, I feel it is best to not fight the system unless you want to bring lots of problems upon yourself. Why?

      As an American, I feel that young men standing around all day doing nothing is a waste of human potential. As a Mexican, I see these same young men as being much happier than their American counterparts who are often depressed, stressed, in therapy and on Prozac.

      I like to think that I am able to combine the best of both cultures but both Angelica and I both know that is not the case. I know I cannot do it. One cannot pick and chose what part of a culture one accepts and if one does it that way, they are not truly bicultural. The good, bad and ugly are all a part of it whether we or our loved ones like it or not. Sometimes I don’t like it either…

      I don’t fight it and don’t think one culture superior to the other. They form two sides of my coin and I accept both for what they are. It’s not a matter of right or wrong, just as one language is not inherently more right than another.

      But something is going on and being back in Veracruz is causing me to wonder again.

      Maybe Dr. G is right and I was able to slip through the cracks that for one reason or another, others have not been able to do. Maybe it was my curiosity and wanting to see and feel it all…maybe. But that is only speculation on my part…

      Yet I’ve never considered it to be a ‘problem’. It has made my life richer and given me perspectives I could never have gotten in any other way. Many times I’ve been told by Mexicans I’m more Mexican than they are…and I know for a fact I love Mexico more than many Mexican Americans do. And probably many Mexicans too.

      But I clearly sence my perspectives are different. And because of the richness of those perspectives, I consider myself to be one lucky paisano.

Jack D. Deal


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July 15, 2007

Mexico Road Trip: Learning Spanish and Sleeping with Pigs

 Even Angelica thought I was her brother’s friend. But it didn’t matter. It had already happened and my destiny was set. I ended up staying for six months in Tierra Blanca and it was no mystery why…

      I worked hard on my Spanish and each day it got a little better. I didn’t care if folks laughed at me and I tried my very best.

      One night I lay awake and heard the pigs get up several times. I couldn’t sleep and it wasn’t the pigs. The next day I drove my motorcycle to my friend’s house, the one that played in the band. I asked him what I should do.

      “You like her?” he asked.

      “Sure” I answered, “but what do I do about it?”

      “It’s pretty simple, amigo. I know her family. They are well respected by all that live in the region. A girl like that won’t last long and you might not ever find another like her as long as you live. If I were in love with such a senorita, I would go tell her right now because if you don’t, someone else will.”

      I got on my motorcycle and drove back to Tierra Blanca. I was nervous and my hands were sweating and I was going through all the pain and agony we men go through in this type of situation. She might not accept me but I wasn’t going to lose her to someone else because I was shy. At least I would find out.

      I asked her and the awkwardness went away when she told me she had fallen in love with me too. I don’t know how others do it but that’s how it happened to me. I’m certainly not an expert in these matters since it’s only happened to me once, ha!

      We had no money, nothing other than a motorcycle and I still needed to go back to Massachusetts to finish my last two years of college. But we did have a deep love and through a lot of hard work somehow managed to pull it off. But that’s another chapter for another day…

      Is that a real love story or what? I guess. Since it’s only happened once to me I don’t really have much of a perspective. But everyone says it is and wants me to write that book on it. Maybe some day…sitting here in Tierra Blanca my brain is flooded with memories of those days…and I suppose there are plenty enough memories to make a book.

      So there it is – the actual way it happened so I don’t have to keep telling it over and over.

       I like to tell the adventuresome story about my learning Spanish in the cantinas drinking tables of beer with the locals. That’s the adventuresome world traveler talking and I’m sure I did learn a lot of Spanish that way. I like to tell how drinking a lot of beer lowered my inhibitions and opened up the linguistic channels.

      But that’s not how it really happened. Most of my Spanish came after dinner sitting at the table in the dirt floor kitchen with Angelica, my mother-in-law and Angelica’s younger brother and sisters. Night after night we would talk and then go outside and sit under the starry night and talk some more. Those are very fond memories that will remain embedded in my brain until I die.

      So we became ‘novios’. And three months later we were married in an unofficial ceremony at the farm. And later officially in the United States. 

      And our love story continues…and maybe now I won’t have to keep retelling it.

Jack D. Deal


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Mexico Road Trip: Ilegals, Immigration and NAFTA

I am going through what the Mexicans call ‘el cambio’ or change. The heat, humidity and food have gotten to me. I haven’t had the ‘turista’ or Montezuma’s revenge yet and may not…sometimes I don’t get it if my intestinal bacteria change slowly and not all at once. And a lot of the sanitation in Mexico has improved. But even so it’s not a bad diarrhea and fever, usually lasting less than a day. Nothing like the dysentery I got in Africa that had me bedridden for three days and lingered on for months. I went from 150 pounds to 120 pounds but it’s not the type of dieting I would recommend…ha.!

      It is estimated that about 300 men aged 18-60 from Tierra Blanca are now working in Atlanta. They go because there is no work in Tierra Blanca. After NAFTA, many agricultural jobs were lost and those are probably gone forever. In the rural southern tier of Mexico, away from the border, this is especially true. I was talking with Juan, a family friend that has a brother working in the Atlanta suburbs. In the morning the brother works at a landscaping company and in the afternoons and nights in a restaurant washing dishes. Those are just two of the industries whose entry level positions are almost entirely filled by Mexicanos…

      Many illegals tend to go through migrant networks comprised of family, friends and members of the same community. They watch after each other and help each other find places to live and work. In the Salinas Valley for instance, almost all the illegals are from Michocan, Jalisco, Sinaloa and Sonora. On many of the farms they all come from the same home town, like Tierra Blanca.

      The problem of illegal immigration is a complex one that has evolved because of the compromises over the years. It is true that there are criminals that cross illegally and that border communities are overwhelmed. But the solution is clearly not in building a 3,000 mile fence or in creating a complex bureaucratic permit system. The farmer in Watsonville cannot wait for work visas as his strawberries rot in the field. And the system of forcing folks to walk several hundred miles through the summer Arizona desert is clearly no solution either.

      I often get asked what the solution is and I can only answer there is no quick and easy one. It took 50 years to create this mess and anyone that thinks amnesty or fences are a quick fix is simply fooling themselves. Stop the illegals and Las Vegas will close its doors as we clearly saw in our stay there. Stop the illegals and the crops will rot in the California fields forcing food prices through the roof. Vegetables will become a luxury…

      What we need is a long term solution that will take a decade or two to carry out. A system that will provide constant change, albeit slow, that will correct the mistakes of past compromises and allow labor to get to the employers that need it. We cannot expect anything to be a quick fix.

      Mexico needs a fix too. Many of Mexico’s educated, ambitious and skilled are now creating assets and wealth in the U.S., not Mexico. Many will stay eventually having families, paying taxes and becoming productive contributors to the U.S. economy and not the Mexican economy. For many years I have maintained that the biggest loser with illegal immigration is Mexico. Not many of my fellow countrymen would agree…

      A neighbor near our house in Tierrra drowned crossing the river at Brownville. He left a wife and two young children behind. We Americans forget that each illegal leaves behind a family and loved ones that worry constantly about their safety crossing the river or walking through the desert. How would we feel if the situation were reversed?

      The wind has changed and the breeze is cool and not as stifling as last night. I’m feeling better now and perhaps am acclimating to the tropical heat and ‘el cambio’.

      Let’s hope the winds of illegal immigration change too…both countries deserve better. Much better.

Jack D. Deal


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July 11, 2007

How to Cook a Maya Tepeizcuinte (Paca Rat)

In aspiring to the quest of a free and inquiring mind I often get exposed to the unexpected and sometimes exotic.   Such was my brush with Tepe.   I have a few Tepes on my jungle ranch and, like the jaguar and boa, felt it important to get to know my critters, responsible caretaker that I am and all that stuff.  The agrarian reform law and my fellow ejido members have legally put me and mi senora in charge of what is allowed and not allowed on our ranch.   With that freedom comes responsibility.    Unlike the jaguar I had no inherent fear of the Tepe though I would never try to catch a rat that size.  Believe me. 

I won't actually give you the "official" recipe for Tepe here; for that you will probably have to  find a Maya friend like my friend Poot though as you can see it doesn't require special sauces, seasonings or fancy cookware. After all it is a rat...and it's all in how it's cooked.   

My authority is Poot, a jungle man who goes out everyday into the jungle.  I really enjoy going into  the jungle with  Poot as there is a whole jungle world that is invisible to most of us.  Poot has taught me to respect, not fear, the jungle.   The only animal the Maya men truly fear is the jaguar...and that is why they will often carry a shotgun when going deep into the jungle. Odds are you won't find a real jungle man in Cancun or Playa because catching and cooking Tepe is a real skill and art that is quickly lost in the land of street tacos, supermercados and Oxxo convenience stores in Chetumal or Tulum.  No simple mousetrap for this monster.  Besides, to find real jungle people one has to actually go to the jungle...just like going after the Tepe.  Duh. 

Poot doesn't speak English nor I Maya but we both speak Spanish.  When I first introduced myself to Poot he said, "Deal -- that sure is a funny name".   I replied, " Poot -- that sure is a funny name".   We both laughed and became good friends.   On my first trip to the ranch he asked me if I had ever eaten Tepe.   I said no as I am from Veracruz and as far as I know we don't have Tepe there.   At least I've never seen one and believe me if I had seen one I would have remembered it.  Tepe is not the sort of thing one forgets...    

Poot promised that before I caught my flight from Cancun back to San Jose I would eat Tepe.  I didn't pay it much attention but on the afternoon two days before my departure he shouted outside our palapa that he had trapped one and to come on over.   From the first day we moved to our Maya jungle village palapa our neighbors have brought us food.  (Occasionally our neighbors in the Bay Area bring us food but none has ever brought rat.)  And since the wife is an excellent cook, Veracruz cuisine is world famous, she returns the favor.  I  like that.   There is something nice about  being social and there is something very social about food.   And neighbors sharing Tepe.   

An interesting thing about the Maya, or at least in our little village, is they only kill animals in self defense or to eat. My guess this has probably been passed down from generation to generation for eons and that's why my neighbors think that way.   Makes sense.      

The jungle is absolutely brutal and unrelenting hence the expression 'it's a jungle out there.'   That's why the Maya thrive there and soft first worlders like me don't.   Well, usually not.  Since the Maya are the poorest indigenous people in Mexico, they often hunt to eat.  I see them out on our ranch but I would never say anything if someone is hunting to eat.   I never have heard them brag about killing animals -- even when drinking with them in the cantinas where they will brag on just about anything else.    Those who feel the Maya children should go hungry and spare the critters are fools.   I love critters too and I will not hunt them but I will not judge a man who is feeding his children.   Consider the alternative which happens all too frequently...   

Obviously I'm not a sport hunter and not really even a hunter.   Somehow I never really got a thrill out of killing animals and I killed a fair number back when we lived on the ranch in Veracruz.   We raised oranges and I shot hundreds of small woodpeckers that would eat the oranges.  The wife would pluck the birds and fry them up...three or four making a very tasty meal.   I once shot a seven foot snake.   I have killed a number of large chicken hawks.   Never did kill any human chicken thieves or orange bandidos though.   And never saw a Tepe.  Nothing even close.   

So for my money, the Tepe is one giant rat.   Technically it's not a rat as we urban dwellers know it...but it looks like a rat and has feet and teeth like a rat.   It's like a rat except it can get up to 10 kilos or 25 pounds.   They are honkers.   They live near marshes or swamps giving totally new meaning to the words swamp rat.   

Poot makes a stone and stick trap at their den entrance and traps them.   Zero cost.  He'll even pull them out with his hands, something a non-jungle man like me would never consider.    He says he is always very careful as they can easily bite off a thumb.   He kills the Tepe with his machete. That is one big rat.   I will never have to remind myself to not stick my hand down in a Tepe hole.   My fingers are fine the way they are... 

He skinned the critter, cut it up, laid it on banana leaf stalks over very hot coals, placed a metal card table top over the fire and covered it all in dirt.   No seasonings whatsoever.   In a little over an hour we were eating Tepe, a cross between chicken and pork.   With tortillas and salsa... yummy!  Poot prefers Tepe to other  jungle animals.   He says the meat is tastier and more tender than tejon or wild pig.  Once or twice a month he gets the urge for Tepe and he sets his traps.   It might take him a day or two but he sooner or later gets his Tepe.  When he has money he eats chicken;  when he has no money he eats Tepe.  He never goes hungry though there are times when he only eats beans, tortillas and habanero peppers: the longevity diet.   Maybe that's why Mayan's hair doesn't turn so gray... 

Don't believe me?   Take a look at the blog photo album with the same title as this post.   Take a look at the teeth on that guy and tell me he's not one big rat.    

   


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